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Friday, 28 April 2017

Seville Estate

"So why's it called Seville?" I asked of CEO Grahame Van der Meulen, "it looks nothing like the brown, dusty plains of Spain". 

You see, the town is actually pronounced Seh-vull, named after the daughter of a long-forgotten Mayor who was taken early in somewhat tragic circumstances. 
Seville Estate was a part of the Yarra Valley’s early renaissance. Despite the establishment as Victoria’s first recognised wine region, the combined challenges of phylloxera, along with general economic decline, saw to its decline by the 30s. Roll forward some 30 years to the early 60s when Wantirna was founded. 

And so it was in 1972 that Dr Peter MacMahon and wife Margaret established the first plantings for Seville Estate, and it was the establishment of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir plantings, somewhat pioneering back in the day, that have ushered in the varieties that the region is now known for.

The MacMahon’s hung around until retirement in 1997, selling to the Hunter Valley’s Brokenwood who subsequently offloaded to the Van der Meulen family some 8 years later. And whilst the core Yarra varieties have remained a constant presence at Seville Estate, so ownership changes have been a constant, with the Van der Meulen’s selling up to Chinese investors in 2016. 

Like many things in wine, it is also somewhat a case of back to the future for Seville Estate, for Dylan MacMahon - grandson of the estate’s founders - has been winemaker there since the Brokenwood days and continues to raise the bar for this South-Central Yarra icon.

Wine Reviews
Blanc de Blanc 2014
Aggressive, minerally, quite coarse. Zero dosage. Grapefruit/ citrus acidity does flow, but it lacks finesse 89

Estate Chard 2016
Peach and Melon with a little cashew, familiar and present throughout. Fresh and clean, a little of that cashew creaminess and spice. Long and dry. 92

Reserve Chardonnay 2015
White peach, delicate citrus; delightful minerally acid, vital. Zesty. 94

Estate Riesling 2014
Riesling was present on the property until the mid-90s when it was grubbed out. A block was grafted back in 2006. Barrel fermented - giving that textural mid-palate richness. Florals, a little kaffir, good length. 91

Rosé 2016
Shiraz, Cab, Merlot: strawberry aromatics. Palate shifts more to savoury and spice. Good length. 92

Estate Pinot Noir 2015
25% bunch, 30% new oak for 8m. 1996 plantings. Bramble red fruit, savoury, great tannin and acid. 93

Old Vine Shiraz 2013
Brambly fruit, underlying black fruit, concentrated. Less savoury, but that shifts more to savoury nuances, peppery spice in the palate. Soft, gossamer body, grains tannin. Subtly mintiness perhaps 94

Old Vine Cabernet 2015
Leafy, tobacco, green olive; structured, medium, well trained tannin.

Tasted on: Sunday 26th March, a Flower day
Source: Cellar Door Tasting

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