Natural Selection Theory: Tom Shobbrook

A timing error on my part meant I had a limited amount of time at the recent Natural Selection Theory tasting held at Spring Brisbane.  I'd previously tasted some of Anton Van Klopper's Domaine Lucci and Lucy Margaux wines, as I had James Erskine's Jauma wines, so for this short opportunity I opted to focus on tasting a few of the wines of Tom Shobbrook (pictured).

A bit about Tom: a Barossa boy, Tom spent 6 years at a leading biodynamic Tuscan Estate - Riecine - before returning in 2007 to his parent's property in Seppeltsfield.  On his return, Tom gained some additional experience working for the Kleins at Ngeringa.  He's now working towards conversion to biodynamic practices on his parents property and that which he owns around Ebenezer.

Eden Valley Riesling 2011: split 40% across tank and 60% in 4-5 year old old oak.  Has the soft florals of the vintage and the lime of the region.  Back end delivers a real citrus burst with requisite mineral and pebble.  The magic happens with fantastic racy length and presence.  Will age tremendously with great acid structure. 93 - Excellent. $35-40

Didi Giallo Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010: whatever you think Sauvignon Blanc is like, throw those thoughts out of your head.  This is not like that at all (it's nice for a start).  I thought it to be a good Pinot Gris initially.  Honeyed pears, floral, spicy.  Real subtle nuances - full and smooth.   Magical.  95 - Outstanding.  $45

Shobbrook 2011 Nouveau Mourvédre: You'll most likely be a little surprised by the spritz on opening this - a little undissolved CO2 is left in the wine on bottling.  Made in a real drink-now style, it's just a beautiful expression of fruit.  Cherry fruity, rounded mouth-feel - yet there's complexity in there, surprising for a young wine.  Some good chalky tanning completes the picture. 91 - Excellent.  $22

Tom is a captivating individual.  Some will have issue with the winemaking techniques that some of the collective employ, but one thing is certain: the wines have an inherent challenging quality about them, and the Natural Selection Theory collective are a group akin to the 19th century artistic sets.  Urging each other on, challenging themselves to make better wine, constantly pushing the envelope.  For that I admire them.

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Taylor's Winemaker's Project Vermentino 2011

Love the concept: allow your winemaker(s) to play with the varietals they want to, and in the manner they wish.  Push themselves and the boundaries of conventional winemaking, but also telling that story via the little booklet that comes with the wine.  

Grower is certified organic but this wine doesn't state that it is.  Regardless, beautifully fresh aromatics: pear, grapefruit and a hint of honeydew melon.  It's lively, fresh, zippy and zesty - excellent acidic approach through to the wine's conclusion.  Feint sea mineral at the back end, moderate length.  Dangerously drinkable.  89 - Good (could quite happily give an additional point for the story telling too). 

Source: Sample

Price: $22

Alcohol: 10.5%

Closure: Screwcap

Website: http://www.taylorswines.com.au/

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Chapel Hill Mourvédre 2010

On this journey I've often wondered what is Australia's best region for Mataro, or the best region for making wines in the style of Bandol.  I think if I were a Mataro vine, I'd be quite happy facing into the Western sun, with a view out towards the Gulf of St Vincent as these vines do.  

From a 20 year old block near to the Victory Hotel at the bottom of Sellick's Hill, this 2010 release is the second from Chapel Hill.  From the hands of Michael Fragos, a Willunga boy at heart.  I read in a profile on Fragos, from Gourmet Traveller in 2008, that he's a man intent on being in-tune with the vines from which the fruit comes, a man hell-bent on making wines with balance and inherent drinkability. 

Quite vivid in the glass, the wine has a vibrancy to it, more than just a hue, or a purple rim, it's positively radiant.  A fantastic perfume greets you on approach, black forest fruits, blueberries, violets and kirsch.  Good Mataro can be like a joy ride, offering thrills and pleasure with every turn - as with this wine, stick your nose in and come back with something else each time you look.

Upon entry it reveals itself to be effortlessly smooth, the flow into the mouth shows the liquorice elements oft found in good examples of the varietal, further supported by smooth chocolate character.  There's excellent persistence exhibited, silken tannin, its a wine of drive and length.

Fantastic wine.  It seems at odds to not even talk of the 15% alcohol, yet it was barely noticeable.  The balance sought, achieved.  92 - Excellent

Source: Sample

Price: $30 

Alcohol: 15%

Closure: Screwcap

Website: http://www.chapelhillwine.com.au/

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[This post was edited at 13:40 on 12/02/2012 to reference the Gourmet Traveller article featuring a profile on Michael Fragos]

Domaine La Sarabande Faugéres 2010

Faugéres is an AOC in the Languedoc appellation, in France's South West corner, inland and roughly equidistant between Montpellier and Carcassone.  The majority of its 2,100 hectares are at relative altitude (often greater than 250m/ 800 feet) and planted on Schist rock - excellent for moisture and heat retention, indeed winemakers in the region say that ripening occurs overnight.

A review of the 2009 of this wine over at Dave Brookes' excellent Vinofreakism piqued my interest in the wine.  Turns out it's made by an Aussie - Paul Gordon and his wife Isla.  Big props to Smashing Bottles for importing it and to the Wine Experience for stocking it.

Pronounced red fruit aromatics from the Grenache: distinct cherry, moving towards plum.  New world it certainly isn't, there's a lovely savoury herbal edge to the wine with a nod to a charcuterie plate.  The palate has this lovely fulsomeness to it - entry is smooth - some structure from the Syrah.  The savoury edge is carried through the core of the wine: earthen, forest floor a hint of mushroom.  Damn fine finish, of good length.  91 - Excellent

Source: Retail, The Wine Experience

Price: $38

Alcohol: 14%

Closure: DIAM

Website: http://www.sarabandewines.com/

Importer: http://www.smashingbottles.com.au/

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[This blog was edited at 07:35 on  12/02/2012 to reflect that Faugéres is an AOC within the Languedoc appellation]

Golden Grove Mourvédre 2009

On 2nd February, I had the pleasure of joining James McIlwain of Southern Cross Wines on 4BCs Wine Time segment.  Wine Time is a fortnightly segment on 4BC Commercial Radio that James hosts.  On this particular show, James and I spoke about Project Mataro and the Swirl, Sniff, Spit tasting group I am part of.  We tasted two wines on air that evening, the Flaxman Wines 2009 Mataro and this, the Golden Grove Mourvédre 2009 from Queensland's Granite Belt.  This is a guest post from James.

My recent introduction to the joy of a good Mourvédre via Project Mataro was coupled with a very impressive visit to the Granite Belt recently. The joys of the Strange Bird varieties produced by a passionate number of wineries in our own backyard cool climate region has really opened up some new experiences for me.

One such winery is the 4.5 James Halliday rated Golden Grove. With vines planted in the 1970’s, the Italian heritage of the Costanzo family shines through with a range of European favourites (e.g. Durif, Barbera, Vermentino et al).  But I was out to track down the 2009 Mourvedre. 

In a recent tasting with another Australian example (labelled Mataro,) this wine held true to it flavour profile. Lighter in style than its Barossa cousin it still displayed deep purple in the glass with a fine dark rim, the earthy nose reminded me of the funkiness I like in good French Pinots (and miss in some Australian ones).

Savoury black fruit, spice and pepper were backed up by strong tannins that had been subtly tamed by the new French oak.  A hint of molasses in the finish.
This wine could only improve with a few years in the cellar.

Source: Cellar Door

Price: $28

Alcohol: 14%

Closure: Screwcap

Website: http://www.goldengroveestate.com.au

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Taylor's Jaraman Margaret River and Clare Valley Chardonnay 2011

More expensive wine of the 3 Taylor's Chardonnay reviewed (the 80 Acres and Estate Chardonnay can be found before this).  The better 'made' wine. Grapefruit and peach on show; mealy with some oak that pops it's head up. Shows some length, with a decent driving line of citrus. Good clip of acid in there too.  88 - Good

Source Sample
Price: $24.95
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.taylorswines.com.au/

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Taylor's Clare Valley Chardonnay 2010

More up my street, and of the three Taylor's Chardonnay reviewed - the one I went back to (the 80 Acres and Jaraman follow).  Toasty, nutty, marzipan aromatics. Some work in the form of battonage provides a creamy feel.  Stone fruit and melon support the wine on the palate. Nutty, showing some complexity. Good finish, some length. 87 - Good

Source: Sample

Price: $18.95

Alcohol: 13.5%

Closure: Screwcap

Website: http://www.taylorswines.com.au/

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