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Monday 14 February 2011

De Bortoli Riesling Kabinett 2010

I'm loving what De Bortoli is doing at the minute.  They seem to be at the cutting edge of many good vinous happenings in Australia at present.  To me its like a three engined beast, purring perfectly on all of its many cylinders.

De Bortoli Chief Winemaker Steve Webber is widely regarded for establishing an excellent culture of innovation.  Sarah Fagan, Winemaker with responsibility for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Grigio and Riesling - worked the 2009 vintage in the Rheingau, at Weingut Josef Leitz.  Fagan is on the record as calling out Germany as a vintage experience destination for its attention to detail.  With the limited experience I have with Riesling and the Kabinett style, I can only comment that this is an excellent quality wine.

It opens with aromas of peach, pear and apple - seemingly in turn.  The entry brings some textural crunch of the said apple and pear.  It struck me as a wine of some substance, filling the mouth.  A sweet burst hits the roof of the mouth then morphs into a glorious acidic hit.  

The wine has a finish that envelopes and fills the back of the mouth, delivering some excellent persistent length.  Each time I went back to it, it presented another dimension.

In the Gourmet Traveller article where I gleaned some of the info here, there's a telling comment from Fagan: "I think Australia has focused too much on acid, not balance, in Riesling. I’d like to see a little more generosity.” And if that means leaving a little residual sugar, that’s okay."  A little RS there is, and that too is OK with me.

Source: Retail, Cru Bar
Price: $24
Closure: Screwcap


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