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This Australian wine blog was formerly known as thewinewankers.com

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Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Reserva Rioja 2005


One issue with having limited experience of a particular variety is that you are not really familiar with a stylistic interpretation.  That said, I can only call out a particular wine as I see it.

I picked this up as a nod to a good wine drinking buddy, The Wine Punter, who had recently had returned from a sojourn around North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula with a love for the Rioja.

This 100% Tempranillo Reserva opens to a dusty, earthy nose that is a little flat rather than the expectations of fullsome fruit that I had expected.  There was a little dark fruit present with a background shroud of oak.  On the palate, the dark fruit represents itself, along with a vein of oak that was wrapped up with some smoky/ charry notes.  It was delivered with a silken finish that was further expressed with some fine tannins and a resurrection of the gentle spice.

Look, it was OK.  It wasn't overwhelming me, frying my bacon, flicking my switch -you know?.  I had to look hard for some of these notes.  My over-riding opinion was that it was just a little 'flat'.

A duff bottle perhaps?  At $30 I'm not inclined to revisit.

Price: $29.95
Closure: Cork

Konrad Marlborough Grüner Veltliner 2010


My interest in Grüner was aroused through a bit of an online debate about it, combined with its apparent scarcity.  For I am aware of only two wineries in Australia produce  Grüner Veltliner, or GV as it is often known, and that is Lark Hill Winery and Hahndorf Hill.  In its home of Austria it is rather more common, accounting for 32% of all plantings, some 17,000 hectares - compared to less than 50 in Australia.

Further, another interesting point about this wine, is that is not mentioned on either the winery website or that of the Australian agent.  In one of those further twists, showing what a small world it is, the agent's website was designed by Blue Pebble - the company founded by Brad Paton of Wineweek.  Small world indeed.

So to the wine, rather simple in its construction - or my interpretation of it is - therein lies the beauty.  A dominant aroma of of peach and apricot on the palate - a little like an Arneis in that respect; a savoury, textural, minerality in the mouth follows.  It is not particularly mouth filling, but there is a good lingering hit of pepper that hangs there and fades pleasantly to a conclusion.  As a first introduction to the variety, very enjoyable.  


I think it a variety we shall see more of over the next 3-5 years as the number of wineries taking on plantings increases.


Source: Retail, Cru Bar Cellars
Price: $30
Closure: Screwcap
Winery Website: http://www.konradwines.co.nz/index.html
Agent: http://www.fsfw.com.au/default.asp


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Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Mike Press Wines Dinner


A distinguished 42 year career working for some of Australia's biggest names (Penfolds, Seppelts, Krondorf), Chief Winemaker for Mildara Blass, Jimmy Watson winner...some pretty impressive stuff, thus an opportunity to taste Mike's range of wines including verticals of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon wasn't to be turned down.

Thoughts of retiring to the Adelaide Hills on 85 acres, 30 of which Mike and Judy planted in 1998 with Shiraz (10), Cabernet (10), Merlot (5) and Pinot Noir (5) plus a further 30 (20 Merlot and Chardonnay 10) the following year, the intent was to grow premium grapes and on-sell to South Australian wineries.

A downturn in grape prices led to the decision to make the wine themselves, with a conscious decision to price to what they had expected to receive for the grapes plus a small margin.  That decision, plus a sales strategy of selling direct and through selected retailers only, has led to a growing number of fans.  This blog is one of them.  It was the profile-raising work of Tyson Stelzer and Matthew Jukes, and their influential, and now sorely missed missed (for it is now longer published) annual publication Taste, that brought MP Wines to my attention.

I didn't take any notes of own on the night, preferring to enjoy the wines.  Instead when Mike and Tyson introduced the Shiraz and Cabernet flights I took the time to record some of their words.

2005 Shiraz: 2-3 years left in it, 100% American Oak and become a bit refined in its old age.
2006 Shiraz: A different wine, Mike wasn't sure why.  Developing into a lovely elegant European styled Shiraz.  Will go a long way.
2007 Shiraz: Fuller than previous years, lovely sweet wood - uses American Oak and lots of it.
2008 Shiraz: a hot year (15.5% on the label), out of a miserable year this was salvaged, will last the least of the Shiraz.
2009 Shiraz: Developing now and showing glimpses of how it will become.  Elegant, beautiful tannins, a wine with much potential.  Look at it in 5 years time.

Mike fielded some questions from the floor, one of which was on the extensive use of American Oak, Mike's response received a warm response: "American Oak suits Shiraz, I'm a product of Shiraz and Penfolds"

My notes on the Cabernets are less detailed than the Shiraz.  Being the 2nd flight of the night, I cannot think why that may be...

Tyson was of the firm opinion that the "Cabernet is the star variety here" and emphasised that Mike's wines are from his own fruit off a single vineyard.  On the 2009 Cabernet it was offered that "to really appreciate what this wine's about, cellar it, look at in 5-10 years time.  Treat it like a serious, expensive wine". 

That the Cabernet is available direct for $167 per dozen, delivered, makes this a tempting proposition.  A few retailers still have the Shiraz available for around $150 a case plus delivery.  Do it, you know you want to.

Price: $80
Closure: About midnight.

Thursday, 20 January 2011

The Bobby Dazzler Shiraz


The Wife has not been too impressed with some of my recent purchases.  Attempting to rectify this, I enquired what her favourite wines were: "Grange and Two Hands Ares" she answered.  Hmm, $550 and about $270 per bottle respectively.

Deep down knowing she is a fan of the fruit bomb I picked up a bottle of this.  A touch of violet on the nose that adds an additional layer to some red-belly black fruits - you know what I mean. There is also a slightly earthen, leathery edge to it too that leads into the palate where a simple presentation of the aforementioned fruit is delivered.

The wine finishes up with a hit of mocha and chocolate, fading to a burst of warmth.  The wine concludes with a trail of generous spice disappearing towards the back of the throat.

Summary, an easy going - yet well constructed - South Australian red.  The wine is made by Ben Riggs - of Mr Riggs, Penny's Hill and Pertaringa fame.  You could do far worse for a sub-$20 glugger.

Source: Retail, Spiros Toowong
Price: $16 ish
Closure: Screwcap

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Wednesday, 19 January 2011

Allies 2009 Stone Axe Vineyard Heathcote Shiraz


After a number of years working on the restaurant scene, Barney Flanders (front of house) and David Chapman (in the kitchen) came together to turn their thoughts to wine.  Study at CSU for Barney, vintage experience across the Mornington, Yarra and overseas, and the collaborative effort yields Allies.  The pair own no vineyards, instead purchasing through lease arrangements.

This wine is from Allies' lower tier offering, they also make top end releases under the Garagiste label.

The Stone Axe opens with an expressive bouquet of fruits, blackberry and plum are significant.  The palate sees a reinforcement of that fruit, it's quite a concentrated full fruit flavour that leads to the finish where a lick of licorice, more akin to the cough candy sweets my mother used to keep in her coat pocket, trails off to its conclusion. 

Source: Retail, Spiros Toowong
Price: $23.99
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://allies.com.au/ (as at 19/01/2011 under construction)

Tuesday, 18 January 2011

Moppity Vineyards Reserve Shiraz 2008


From some of the oldest vines in the region, Jason Brown has crafted this exquisite wine.  The presence of a small amount of co-fermented Viognier can be detected with the slight lifted aromatics as you approach the wine.

Entry shows an incredibly silken earthen mouthfeel; a gentle burst of warmth on entry presents itself to fade quickly, delivering concentrated dark berry fruit and supporting spice.  The wine feels incredibly delicate, a nod to the excellent care and winemaking.  

The finish is of some length, with a sublime peppery drive permeating through the palate with very fine tannins concluding this excellent drinking experience.

Source: Retail, McGuire's The Paddo
Price: $59.99 (online price)
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.moppity.com.au/index.htm

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Monday, 17 January 2011

Moppity Vineyards Lock & Key Shiraz 2009


One of my early goals with respect to setting up this blog was to establish what my thing 'is' in relation to the wine I drink.  I so often feel like a kid in a candy store when I go into a wine store: there's so much on offer, so many things I want to try.

This blog is an attempt to try and make sense of some of that.  To refine my palate, and define my preferences.

I've read somewhere that owner/ winemaker Jason Brown describes the style of Shiraz he's trying to make as "Barossa meets the Grampians"; and indeed commented on my write-up of the 2008 that "For me, Hilltops shiraz is a hybrid of Barossa and Grampians. The '08 leans towards Barossa with some really nice richness while the '09 moves closer to Grampians/Great Western".  I can see where Jason is coming from having looked at both wines now.

The wine leads with quite meaty and peppery aromas.  However it is on the palate that makes this wine stand out.  It has quite a meaty entry, some adjectives will not do it justice, there's a hint of brambly fruit, but...more than that it has an expressiveness in the mouth that belies its price.  I detected a bit of dark chocolate on the back palate, but it was more about the the fullness, the power and structure for me.

The finish sees the conclusion of a consistent core of spice that runs throughout and the delivery of some moderate/ fine tannins that give a pleasant coating to the mouth.

In summary, this is an exquisite wine.  Ignore the price, this wine would deliver at something double that.  Instead see this wine for the quality within.  One recommendation, give it some time in the decanter, or at the least give it a double decant.

Oh, and the relevance of the opening paragraph?  It is this style of wine that is "doing it for me" at the present.

Source: Retail
Price: $15 (online price)
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.moppity.com.au/index.htm

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