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This Australian wine blog was formerly known as thewinewankers.com

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Sunday, 26 February 2012

David Franz Benjamin's Promise Shiraz 2004






Been on a bit of a Barossa kick of late. Having previously sampled the delights of a Peter Lehmann Eight Songs 2004, I thought I'd skip a Lehmann generation and sample in the delights of this offering from David Franz.

So, spicy coffee-ish oak with a backdrop of juicy fruit - sounds Barossan. But the palate delivers rich, ripe flavors that effortlessly glide down. More of those coffee-notes that build and build through to the finish. Tannins, ultra-fine that coat your mouth and teeth.

It's one of those seductive wines that has you coming back for more.

Beautiful packaging on the outer, glorious juice within.

Source: Retail, Purple Palate
Price: $38
Alcohol:14.8%
Closure: Cork
Website: http://www.david-franz.com/

Saturday, 25 February 2012

Yelland & Papps Divine Grenache 2009


Australia has fantastic old vine resources.  Certainly amongst Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet and Mataro (see my note on the Y&P Dvine Mataro here) it can lay claim to having the oldest vines of the type in the world.

So, this example, from vines 130 years of age, has been shown the respect due to it.  The fruit has been allowed to shine, 'fruity' is often seen as a pejorative when it comes to Australian wine - and big thanks to a well regarded wine writer for that thought - yet when it comes to fruit of this calibre, it would be an insult to do anything else but let it sing.

Only 700 produced, spends 24 months in 100% French oak - 10% of which is new - thirteen days on skins, bottled unfiltered, and then spends 12 months in bottle.  Quite simply: divine.

Some detection of oak on initial viewing, and along with a hint of Grenache's boiled lolly, that soon dissipates with time in glass.  In the mouth, the wine presents itself as one of substance: smooth, viscous, a good mouth-feel, black-fruited and somewhat tarry.  Depth, intensity, and complexity.

Tannins on the finish are soft and plush - not that the varietal is noted for its tannin - and the depth carries through and continues to the wines not inconsiderable conclusion.  93 - Very Good

Source: Sample
Price: $75
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap

Chateau de Sours Bordeaux Rosé 2010


Chateau de Sours is located near Libourne and Pomerol, sitting atop a limestone plateau providing free-draining soils.  With a heritage stretching back 200 years, wines such as this are leading a resurgence of interest for Bordeaux Rosé.

Delicate berry perfume, a hint of strawberries and cream.  Entry shows a wine somewhat light-on, there's textural interest, but it works as a rather easy drinking and lightly fruited style - pairing rather nicely with a small goods tray.  Dry - naturally - with spice through the finish, which adds further interest through length.  90 - Good

Source: Tasting
Price: $26.99
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap

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[Updated at 14:21 25/02/2012 to include a 'score']

Thursday, 23 February 2012

Murray Street Vineyards Black Label Mataro 2010


Aromatically complex, akin to driving up a mountain pass, something different greeting you at each turn: chocolate coated black cherries, a baked crumble of red and black fruits; then the savoury elements - coffee compounds, beef consomme, Bovril, a faint whiff of violet.

Smooth on entry, showing itself to be a wine of substance - palate weight filling the mouth; shape across the palate - a tarry, black fruited core concluding with the now familiar liquorice of Mataro.

There's length too, slowly fading to a conclusion, showing moderate tannin, Szechuan spice and resurgent black fruit.  92 - Very Good.

Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap

Saturday, 18 February 2012

Natural Selection Theory: Tom Shobbrook


A timing error on my part meant I had a limited amount of time at the recent Natural Selection Theory tasting held at Spring Brisbane.  I'd previously tasted some of Anton Van Klopper's Domaine Lucci and Lucy Margaux wines, as I had James Erskine's Jauma wines, so for this short opportunity I opted to focus on tasting a few of the wines of Tom Shobbrook (pictured).

A bit about Tom: a Barossa boy, Tom spent 6 years at a leading biodynamic Tuscan Estate - Riecine - before returning in 2007 to his parent's property in Seppeltsfield.  On his return, Tom gained some additional experience working for the Kleins at Ngeringa.  He's now working towards conversion to biodynamic practices on his parents property and that which he owns around Ebenezer.

Eden Valley Riesling 2011: split 40% across tank and 60% in 4-5 year old old oak.  Has the soft florals of the vintage and the lime of the region.  Back end delivers a real citrus burst with requisite mineral and pebble.  The magic happens with fantastic racy length and presence.  Will age tremendously with great acid structure. 93 - Very Good. $35-40

Didi Giallo Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010: whatever you think Sauvignon Blanc is like, throw those thoughts out of your head.  This is not like that at all (it's nice for a start).  I thought it to be a good Pinot Gris initially.  Honeyed pears, floral, spicy.  Real subtle nuances - full and smooth.   Magical.  95 - Outstanding.  $45

Shobbrook 2011 Nouveau Mourvédre: You'll most likely be a little surprised by the spritz on opening this - a little undissolved CO2 is left in the wine on bottling.  Made in a real drink-now style, it's just a beautiful expression of fruit.  Cherry fruity, rounded mouth-feel - yet there's complexity in there, surprising for a young wine.  Some good chalky tanning completes the picture. 91 - Very Good.  $22

Tom is a captivating individual.  Some will have issue with the winemaking techniques that some of the collective employ, but one thing is certain: the wines have an inherent challenging quality about them, and the Natural Selection Theory collective are a group akin to the 19th century artistic sets.  Urging each other on, challenging themselves to make better wine, constantly pushing the envelope.  For that I admire them.

Monday, 13 February 2012

Taylor's Winemaker's Project Vermentino 2011


Love the concept: allow your winemaker(s) to play with the varietals they want to, and in the manner they wish.  Push themselves and the boundaries of conventional winemaking, but also telling that story via the little booklet that comes with the wine.  

Grower is certified organic but this wine doesn't state that it is.  Regardless, beautifully fresh aromatics: pear, grapefruit and a hint of honeydew melon.  It's lively, fresh, zippy and zesty - excellent acidic approach through to the wine's conclusion.  Feint sea mineral at the back end, moderate length.  Dangerously drinkable.  89 - Good (could quite happily give an additional point for the story telling too). 


Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 10.5%
Closure: Screwcap

Sunday, 12 February 2012

Chapel Hill Mourvèdre 2010


On this journey I've often wondered what is Australia's best region for Mataro, or the best region for making wines in the style of Bandol.  I think if I were a Mataro vine, I'd be quite happy facing into the Western sun, with a view out towards the Gulf of St Vincent as these vines do.  

From a 20 year old block near to the Victory Hotel at the bottom of Sellick's Hill, this 2010 release is the second from Chapel Hill.  From the hands of Michael Fragos, a Willunga boy at heart.  I read in a profile on Fragos, from Gourmet Traveller in 2008, that he's a man intent on being in-tune with the vines from which the fruit comes, a man hell-bent on making wines with balance and inherent drinkability. 

Quite vivid in the glass, the wine has a vibrancy to it, more than just a hue, or a purple rim, it's positively radiant.  A fantastic perfume greets you on approach, black forest fruits, blueberries, violets and kirsch.  Good Mataro can be like a joy ride, offering thrills and pleasure with every turn - as with this wine, stick your nose in and come back with something else each time you look.

Upon entry it reveals itself to be effortlessly smooth, the flow into the mouth shows the liquorice elements oft found in good examples of the varietal, further supported by smooth chocolate character.  There's excellent persistence exhibited, silken tannin, its a wine of drive and length.

Fantastic wine.  It seems at odds to not even talk of the 15% alcohol, yet it was barely noticeable.  The balance sought, achieved.  92 - Very Good

Source: Sample
Price: $30 
Alcohol: 15%
Closure: Screwcap

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[This post was edited at 13:40 on 12/02/2012 to reference the Gourmet Traveller article featuring a profile on Michael Fragos]