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Tuesday, 16 October 2012

Voyager Estate Project 95 Chardonnay 2009

This wine is produced solely from a clone of Charonnay known as clone 95.  The  predominant clone used in Margaret River is the gin-gin, or Mendoza, clone - which i've seen cited as lacking in the back palate.  The gin-gin clone provides the majority input into Voyager's Estate Chardonnay, supported by clone 95.

In the technical wine world, clones are almost at the pinnacle of geekery.  'Clones' are identified for certain properties or characters they exhibit, and in the case of Clone 95, one of a number of clones collectively referred to as the 'Bernard' clones, is widely regarded as having superior sugar content, producing full, rich and balanced wines. The alternate view is there are those who believe, above all, that, regardless of clone, terroir is the fundamental contributor to fruit character...but that's a discussion for another day.

100 dozen made in total.  Opening of citrus, meal and cashew - but not overly creamy.  Oak here unobtrusive - deliberately so to allow clonal (and fruit) character to shine.  Toasty hints present themselves also.

Rather delicate in the mouth, likened to fine bone china, balanced and elegant yet not to the point of being skinny.  Like a super-model: lean, fantastically structured, pure.  Acidity is fantastic, generating exquisite length and structure.  A remarkably long lived wine.  A joy to drink over 2-3 days.  94/ 95 - Outstanding

Tasted on: 14-15th October (Root Day)
Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $ 49.90
Alcohol: 12.9%
Closure: Screwcap

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