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Saturday, 10 January 2015

Blue Poles Teroldego 2009


One of only two producers of Teroldego - that I am aware of - in Australia. The cuttings from which the Blue Poles vines were planted came from ex Cape Mentelle winemaker Rob Durham. You can read a bit about the background to the variety and Blue Poles own history with the variety over on an archive edition of their excellent monthly report (well worth signing up to if you're keen to follow the monthly rhythms of a small scale owner-manged property).

A bit of time in bottle has seen his example settle. Straddles a line between savoury, wood and spice against floral notes that flitter in the background. Florals that sway toward a soapy, pot pourri prettiness.

Soft, velvet cushioned entry here - tannin still present, somewhat tamed with some air. Woody, hints of licorice root, drying and deliciously savoury. Structure is maintained and the wine's drying tannin gives length, compelling you to drink more.

Unforced feel, still-fresh acid, woody, savoury, black licorice and latterly beefy (indeed I felt taken to note that latterly it started to take on the aroma of a simmering ragu). If you've any of this in the cellar, it's looking very good now. 93

Tasted on: Friday 26th December, a Root to Flower day
Source: Own Cellar
Price: $25 (long since sold out)
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.bluepolesvineyard.com.au/

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Friday, 9 January 2015

O'Leary Walker Wyebo Shiraz 2012


Adding to the collective capital of Shiraz/ Syrah from the Adelaide Hills comes this example from O'Leary Walker.

Opens with a medley of red fruits that only grows in stature with time. Touches of latent spice and cool-ish pepper.

Medium bodied, soft and easy going. Very attractive, the perfect partner to OLW own Clare valley Cabernet from the same year. With time here, brambly fruit pulls through, more black than red.

Time sees it sharper, juicier, length that gives. Preference here for the wine on day two. Give this some time in the cellar, or if you just must drink it now, do so with a good decant. 92

Tasted on: Thursday 25th December, a Root day
Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://olearywalkerwines.com/

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Thursday, 8 January 2015

Wild Duck Creek Springflat Shiraz 2004


Back in the days when Australia was the darling of Bob "The Nose" Parker, a run of spectacular reviews delivered Wild Duck Creek into the minds of those who hung on his Bobness' every word.

Read Campbell Mattinson's excellent "Why the French Hate Us" for more on that period and on the Estate itself.

For a wine at ten years old, still shows some degree of fruit character on the nose, largely black fruit, ripe and forward. There's creamy, residual notes of American oak - it spent 19 months in 45% new American and French.

It's full bodied, high octane, black fruited sweetness; slick, full and slippery glycerol with hints of licorice and pepper.

There's length, more like burn from the alcohol, as opposed to a glorious tail from better wines. Did I tackle it too early? Or as the fruit has faded, does the wine have very little else to offer? 89

Tasted on: Thursday 25th October, a Root day
Source: Personal Cellar
Price: $77.99
Alcohol: 15%
Closure: Cork
Website: http://www.wildduckcreekestate.com.au/

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Wednesday, 7 January 2015

O'Leary Walker Clare Valley McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012


A 70/30 blend of Shiraz from Clare Valley and McLaren Vale. 

Cherry and the skin of plums, a sprinkle of cedary spice, fresh sage. A little vanilla comes through over red fruits, that latterly show their hand to be more in the redcurrant spectrum.

Medium bodied, solid black fruit at the core. Contrasting to the aromatic introduction. Black tangy fruit, black olive and a little bitter twist moving towards the back palate. 89 

Tasted on: Thursday 18th December
Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://olearywalkerwines.com/

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Monday, 5 January 2015

Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla En Rama



You may be deceived in thinking this a sherry for the i generation. But whilst, aromatically at least, it shares something with that i-prefix everything lifestyle technology company, the "I Think" is so named after the phrase scrawled by Charles Darwin on one of the pages of the notebook that went on to inform his famous works "The Voyage of the Beagle" and "On the Origin of Species".

There is an excellent book entitled 'Manzanilla' authored by Christopher Fielden and Javier Hidalgo that discussed at length the name Manzanilla. Reference to that book, whilst a poor attempt to make me look well read, is also a vehicle for referencing two of the principal aromas leading this wine. For Manzanilla is the Spanish word for camomile, and some also suggest the diminutive form for manzana, the apple.

Beyond that rather contrived introduction, the wine carries that sea-spray on the wind and oxidative, nutty complexity.

It's dry, a touch of caramel and spice; a peaty - whisky-like slow burn on the back palate follows. Generous of length, a length somewhat masked by the food I paired with it (pan fried chorizo, prawns and chick peas - if you're wondering). Refreshing, worthy of a second glass for sure. 91

Tasted on: Thursday 25th December, a Root day 
Source: Retail, Cru Bar
Price: $25 
Alcohol: TBC
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.equiponavazos.com/en/inden.htm

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Inkwell Infidels Primitivo 2013


Considered winemaking here from Dudley Brown. Sees a total production of 3000 bottles; declared inclusion of 8% Shiraz, use of 30% new American oak - the only wine for which Inkwell uses American oak.

It stands out like the proverbial chippie's thumb here - and it works. A seasoned mix of black fruit - cherry in the main - wrapped up with that vanilla creme anglaise thing happening.

Gentle - for what is quite a high ABV - easy on the palate. Medium bodied, unforced, easy to ingest. Tannin here is of a powdery nature, further adding to the wine's easy going nature.

Length is very good to boot - unforced a word I kept returning to, just sitting there, idling, easing itself in for a long road ahead. 92

Tasted on: Sunday 21st December, a Leaf day
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.inkwellwines.com/

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Saturday, 3 January 2015

Grant Burge Kraft Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2014



Shows good restraint for the variety. Leads with citrus, almost a lemon sherbet lead-in with faint tropicals supplementing the view.

Fails to back this up on the palate. Distinct muteness by comparison, a little tropical fruit and candy expression coming through to save the wine from being a totally insipid manifestation. 86

Tasted on: Sunday 14th December, a Fruit day 
Source: Sample
Price: $24.75
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.grantburgewines.com.au/

Follow me: http://twitter.com/TheVinsomniac