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This Australian wine blog was formerly known as thewinewankers.com

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Sunday, 12 December 2010

Domaine Lucci 2010 Wildman Pinot Noir


Domaine Lucci and Anton van Klopper seem to have a profound affect on me.  I'd never heard of either until about early November 2010, then in one of those strange moments of synchronicity, I came across Mr Klopper, or the fruits of his labours about four times in as many days.

I have the Qwoff Boys to thank for at least two of these introductions. Firstly by way of his introduction in Max Allen's "The Future Makers" and then also by virtue of their Road to Vino Episode "Lunch With Lucy".  Watching this video of Andre and Justin tasting with Anton a) made me sickingly jealous and b) made me have to sit down and stop what I was doing otherwise I would risk fainting.  This was one of those head-spinny moments where I was just enthralled at the approach, or some may say lack of, to winemaking this guy had.  I was simply in a daze.  I had to get me some of those wines!

Around the same time, the Winefront, reviewed two wines from the stable.  If I wasn't hooked before, I was now.

This is only the second wine that I have tried from the hands of Anton van Klopper.  Jumping to conclusions quickly, I consider that these are very challenging wines, in the sense that they have challenged me as a consumer.  The first of their wines I tried was a Pinot Gris.  It was red.  The individual who allowed me to sample this wine asked of me what my thoughts were when I was thinking of Pinot Gris.  Red most certainly was not one of them.  Challenging I say.

This wine is clearly a Pinot Noir.  It smells of varietal cherries and raspberries.  But take a look at it, and its not your typical light, shiny, nigh transparent, red Pinot Noir.  There's almost a brown tinge to it.  Not the brickish tinge of an aged Pinot, this is something altogether more earthen.  Then I start to think, its a 2010 - is this how young Pinot's are?  I have no other frame of reference.  I'll have to take it as I see it.

In the mouth, it's warm, some earthiness, tight - again not at all like Pinot's I have tasted before - which admittedly is pretty much exclusively new world.

The finish has spice in the roof of the mouth and this leads through to the back palate; this wine had me hooked.  It is good shit, if I may be as vulgar as to say.

Although the bottle was finished, I carried on drinking it mentally.  The slight earthiness, the raspberry and cherry could have me thinking it was a Grenache.  No, its definitely Pinot Noir.  Even now I am thinking about it.

Whichever way you approach it, this is seriously good booze.  If you want a Pinot Noir to drink, yes this ticks all the right boxes.  If you want a Pinot Noir that will engage you, maybe make you think, look at what's in the glass repeatedly, then this is your man.

Source: Retail
Price: $35
Closure: Diam with Wax Seal
Website: http://www.lucymargauxvineyards.com/
Retailer: Spiros Toowong

Thursday, 9 December 2010

KT & The Falcon 2009 Peglidis Watervale Riesling


I really like single vineyard wines, I just feel they have a bit more of a story to tell with the ability to point to a block of vines and a patch and say "this is from where I came".  To that end its a shame when a winery doesn't back up that story with having an up to date website.

The aroma provides hallmark Watervale Riesling fruit: varietal apple and citrus, particularly the familiar lime.  However it is on the palate that the wine shines. Spritz on entry and tongue tingling acidity.  As you allow the wine to float around the mouth there's some familiar slatey minerality.  

This is hard to describe, but do try it and I'm sure you'll understand where I am trying to come from.  Toward the finish, a touch more spritz, good acid and a reappearance of some of the quality fruit shining through.  All up, a very smart dry Riesling.

Source: Retail
Price: $30-$35
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.ktandthefalcon.com.au/index.html
Retailer: Spiros Toowong

Wednesday, 8 December 2010

Vinteloper Wines 2010 McLaren Vale Rosé


I've had the good fortune to meet winemaker David Bowley and to try a number of wines from his portfolio.  I have disclose that I am a fan of his work. 

What most impresses me is David's passion in letting the fruit shine through in his wines.  As David states on his website: "all wines are made with minimal intervention and primitive techniques to allow texture & unique expression".

A good barometer for any wine's quality in my household is my wife.  Whilst I'm the one who tries to analyse a wine and makes attempts to express how I find it, my wife pays a wine the ultimate compliment in emptying her glass quickly and refilling it.  She paid this wine that compliment.

This wine is made form 96% Shiraz with 2% of Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Grenache added.  Other technical specs are 7-10 g/L residual sugar, with pH at 3.25 and a total acidity (TA) of 6.6.  A fairly balanced, not overtly sweet wine.

The wine itself offers an gentle aromas of berry fruit: strawberry and cranberry for me.  However it is on the palate that the wine shone through.  On entry, some immediate savoury notes with a slight creamy mouthfeel.  I felt the wine was fullest at the fore of the palate; more of that cranberry dryness present.  There was some length, with a dry finish and a gentle touch of what I would consider spice - possibly white pepper.

Overall a good balanced wine.  Not sweet, nor excessively dry.  A good wine in harmony with itself.


Closure: Screwcap
Price: $21 per bottle from website

Tuesday, 7 December 2010

2010 Swinging Bridge Rosé


Swinging Bridge Vineyard was first planted in 1995, with initial plantings of Shiraz and Chardonnay. Located to the South of Canonwindra (which I've learned is pronounced Canoundra) in the Central Ranges of NSW. This wine came to me via David Cumming at Define Wine.

Whilst the Rosé Wine Revolution was about the pale dry style, the colour of a number of Rosés caused a fair bit of debate, with some fairly forthright views held as to whether colour actually mattered. For me, I think not. A wine's colour would not necessarily lead me to a purchase decision or otherwise. That said, the Rosé Wine Revolution was intended to champion the paler style, but it would appear that a number of 'brighter' styles were up for consideration.

To this wine, a Rosé more on the reddish spectrum, appearing vibrant in the glass. Its nose offers definite hints of strawberry - but then I am sure that most Rosés have a hint of strawberry on the nose.

This particular wine is made, predominantly from Cabernet Sauvignon, with a touch of Merlot. This contributes to a good crisp finish on the palate. The thing I am most surprised about is that on second tasting, this wine wasn't as sweet as I first remembered. It is the second tasting from which I am drawing these notes.

I think this goes to show how environmental factors can alter the properties of a wine quite significantly.  Admittedly when I first tried it, I was a little under the weather. It was tried alongside a number of other wines and accompanied with some home made pizzas - quite possibly the ingredients on the pizzas accentuating some sweetness on the palate.

So, in summary, the wine offers a good gentle aroma which, in the mouth, manifests itself as a gentle crisp Rosé with some length there. It doesn't dominate the palate and would lend itself as a great accompaniment to a light summer meal or the great Aussie BBQ.

Source: Sample
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $18
Web: http://www.swingingbridge.com.au/

Sparrow & Vine 2010 Eden Valley Grenache Rosé


The Grenache for this Rosé is from Noel Doecke's vineyard in Gawler Park Road, not too far from Angaston I am informed.  It's made by Wayne Ahrens, the proprietor of Smallfry Wines, and is made to specification for Brendan Hilferty who many may know on Twitter as @thewinepoint.  Whilst that is Brendan's day job and the one that pays the bills, this Rosé is the first release from a side-project of Brendan's.  Sparrow & Vine are also on twitter: @sparrowandvine.

The fruit for this wine was picked specifically for Rosé in late February at 11 baume.  The intent was to produce a lower alcohol style but the wild yeast got a little excited and took it too around 13% alcohol.  In addition to the Grenache, there is a little Alicante Bouchet present which lends a brighter colour to the wine.

I really enjoyed this wine on the night.  Raspberries, cranberry and a touch of raspberry on the nose = the Grenache fruit showing through there for me.  In the mouth, textural with quite  broad sensation.  What I mean is it fills the mouth a little more than other wines I have tasted.  There's more cranberry and raspberry on the palate that morphs into a gentle finish.  Its not incredibly lengthy, breadth rather than depth in this one.

I like it.  A great food wine.  Dry, textural, slight savoury notes.  An impressive debut.

Source: Sample
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $20
Web: http://sparrowandvine.com.au/

Wednesday, 1 December 2010

Cirillo 1850 Old Vine 2010 Grenache Rosé


A good friend of mine, he masquerades as TwoGlassTaste on Twitter, stocks some of Cirillo's wine via his own website southerncrosswines.com.au. He was generous to bring this around as part of the RoseRev festivities (or the Toowong Revolutionary Planning Council as I started to think of it).

The first thing about this wine: a beautiful bright fuschia pink. Its a dark wine, I've seen lighter coloured Pinot Noir. Its colour pleases me, nay invites me to drink.

The aroma shows cranberry; touches of raspberry and cherry. These aromas manifest themselves into the palate, however it is the wine's dryness that has me. Its deliciously dry and this gives the wine some length too and renders a little tannin. Incredible finish. In short, if this isn't already clear, I like it.

Source: Sample
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $20 (approx.)
Web: http://www.southerncrosswines.com.au

De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate Grown Pinot Noir Rosé 2010


Feeling a touch under the weather in the lead up to the Rosé revolution left me a little unsure as to how my palate was going to hold up to a significant tasting - more importantly, could I do the wines justice?

Rosé to me just speaks of Summer. The perfect accompaniment to many of the dishes we associate with the same season: Oysters, Salmon. The latter a perfect segue into the colour of this wine, a delightful pure salmon pink.

On the nose fresh and vibrant with a touch of summer Strawberry coming through. In the mouth, its a light wine - not overly dominating with fruit, there is a gentle hint. Rather it is the finish that makes this wine. It has a gentle persistence that effectively fills the back palate and holds for some time. It concludes with a gentle bitterness, that morphs into a touch of spice.

Source: Sample
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $25
Winery: http://www.debortoli.com.au/