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Monday 27 October 2014

Dodgy Brothers Wine Mataro 2013

"Dodgy brother" Wes Pearson was in Brisbane town recently and was kind enough to co-host Swirl, Sniff, Spit alongside fellow winemaker Rory Lane.

This Mataro, from a vineyard down in McLaren Vale's Sellick foothills, was one of the wines we showed that evening. Wes advised that the vineyard itself was grafted over about 8-10 years ago, so just starting to hit its sweet spot. The wine would normally form part of the Dodgy Bros GSM, but was looking so good that Wes called it to bottle the two barrels as a (pretty much) single varietal.

Co-fermented with a splash of Grenache (13%), a forty-eight hour cold soak followed by a tend day ferment. What does that mean? Gentle extraction of colour and flavour that has shown the Mataro here in a pretty, aromatic guise.

Shows the many facets of Mataro, with cherry initially leading - but it's more about black fruit, with hints of blue, a suggestion of iodine and flashes of citrus in the mix.

Medium-full of body, its weight is excellent; spice, segueing to cherry-plummy depths, savoury and black fruit interplay. The danger with my fondness for Mataro is to attempt to seek too much, to ignore the "less is more". Lithe, supple and easy going - no simple wine, concludes with a lovely savoury tail. 92

Tasted on: Weds 8th October, a Leaf to Fruit day 
Source: Sample
Price: $29
Alcohol: 13.8%
Closure: Screwcap

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