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Friday, 30 November 2012

Citadine Gruyere Syrah 2010


I'm sure many have developed a fondness for the good stuff after a stint at that renowned seat of learning Cambridge University, but I am unsure as to how many have entered the wine industry after sequencing yeast genomes.

Kirby Simering fits this pattern, and cites winemakers such as Gary Mills of Jamsheed and the Churches formerly of Warramate, as key influences, winemakers in the 'traditional' mould.

This 2010 Syrah was sourced from 10 year old vines off of the Warramate Vineyard, since acquired by the group that owns leading Barossan winery Kaesler.

Seeing 50% whole bunch, Kirby stating he saw good levels of ripeness in the stems, delivering tanning from the grape - not the oak.  Opens with stalky and funky notes - a nose gardeners would no doubt be familiar with.  Yet, it was testament to the quality of the fruit that it showed a generous heart of black fruits, and continued to do so over the three days I had it open.

Fine and generous through the middle, the onset of spice - szechuan spice - early, and persistent as it travels through the palate.  It spreads, creeps, keeps moving up slowly...a movement of acid edging things further.

Tannin is fine, length generous.  Savoury with hints of beefy complexity, utimately demonstrating finesse and power; grace and charm.  92 - Very Good


Tasted on: Thursday 22nd November, a Flower Day
Source: Sample
Price: $34
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.citadine.com.au/

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Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Reviews: Low and Zero Sulphur Wines


The subject of Sulphur in wine is an interesting one. Some consumers seek wine with minimal, or no, Sulphur additions for health reasons. Sulphur exists naturally and is present to some degree in all wines. Some producers seek to minimise the amount of additional Sulphur added – it’s a preservative for the wine – from a philosophical view point. Whatever your stance, here are a few wines that sit in the low/ no Sulphur camp.


Shobbrok Mourvedre 2010
If you’re looking for this in the shelf, seek those wines with a black wax seal which had zero sulphur additions. This wine shows a slight medicinal note with earthen, brambly plum character. Purple fruits and spicy tinges round it out. Juicy and easy-going with a good line of flavour. One of those dangerously drinkable wines. 89 – Good | $35, Cork, 14.5%

Battle of Bosworth Puritan Shiraz 2012
Zero additional sulphur here. It’s all about freshness and purity of fruit flavour. Lovely grapey aromatics with a supporting mix of black and red fruits. Soft and juicy, a generous black fruited mass – but I saw its appeal in its easy going nature rather than a dictionary of flavour profiles. There’s a hint of blackcurrant pastille on the finish; youth and style deny all but the faintest line of tannin. 90 – Good | $20, Screwcap, 14%

Salo Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2011
A little Sulphur is added during the pressing stage and at bottling. An exquisite wine showing lemon curd, pastry and sourdough crust on approach. A zesty body, fresh citrus flavours abound, but it is the textural feel in the mouth that wins out here. Precision, piercing focus – a demonstrative wine in the mouth with a little ‘grip’ providing further substance to the line and length of finish. 94 – Excellent | $45, Screwcap, 13%

Domaine Lucci Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2011
A still wine, and despite the presence of Pinot Noir, is a translucent off-gold colour, the colour coming from winemaking techniques to control the extraction from the grape skins. Aromatically it shows a light honeyed note with florals. Hints of baked goods, raw cashews and flaked almond – the Pinot provides the faintest hint of baked strawberry. Green apples in the mouth with a puckering sharpness of acid, feels a little green and fresh. 87 - Average | $30, Diam, 12.8%

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Monday, 19 November 2012

Mandalay Road Shiraz 2009


Forty-eight hours later and I am still a little clueless.  Each time I go back to the wine I see something else.  For that reason alone, it's thoroughly enchanting.  It's in balance, drinks well - very well - if a little schizophrenic in appearance.

Initially savoury, leafy with plummy depth.  Aniseed and fennel accompanying a lovely spice coursing through the middle - deliciously juicy to boot.  

Then, plum and florals: violets and rose; the middle section saw the spice (more star anise and clove) a recurrent theme with choc-mint character filling it out.  Consistently pleasurable, even if it did seem to blow hot and cold like a fickle temptress.  A dificult to rate 90/91+ - Good/ Very Good for what it's worth.

Tasted on: Saturday 17th November, a Fruit Day 
Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol:14.2%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://mandalay.mysouthwest.com.au/

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Sunday, 18 November 2012

A.Retief Gundagai Shiraz 2009


Aromatically alluring from the off.  Pepper, florals, choc-mint - complexity, further  enhanced by peppery Hunter Stew, all interwoven with fruit character.

Smooth and fluid, a generous medium bodied version of the variety.  Blackcurrant and spice with black pepper adding an edge - marking it out, or rather, preventing it just being about the fruit character.  Familiar and welcoming - a crowd favourite most likely.  

Light fluffy tannin completes the picture, it's well structured - easy to understand and work with.  90 - Good  

Tasted on: Saturday 17th November, a Fruit Day
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.aretief.com.au/

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Meerea Park XYZ Shiraz 2010


XYZ is a sub-brand of Hunter winemakers par excellence Meerea Park.  The brand is intended to represent a more modern take on the Hunter style.

10% of the Shiraz portion was left as whole bunches, the wine also saw inclusion of 4% Viognier co-fermented.  Spends 18 months in big-format oak (500 litre Puncheons), of which 20% was new.  So basically big format oak, minimal new - intend being to moderate influence of oak.

Smells earthen, meaty and gamey.  Hints of rose, red fruits with the added aromatic elevation of the Viognier providing Violets and Blueberries.

Saw sharp acid early on in the palate, subsiding to give way to black fruits and a modicum of sweetness.  Squarely medium bodied, soft tannins and moderate length.  88 - Good



Tasted on: Saturday 17th November, a Fruit Day
Source: Gift
Price: $16.95
Alcohol:13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.meereapark.com.au

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Friday, 16 November 2012

Taylors Estate Clare Valley Riesling 2012


Fresh. lemon and lime sorbet.  Not much to shout about aromatically but things liven up where it counts.  A richer palate, fuller, zesty with pithy lemon. 

Full - again that word - rather than racy and linear like many a Riesling.  Citrus moves toward the finish, a hint of orange oil.  Good length, a good wine.  89 - Good

Tasted on: Monday 12th November, a Root Day
Source: Sample
Price: $19
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.taylorswines.com.au

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Thursday, 15 November 2012

Cook's Lot Mudgee Riesling 2010


Aromatically showing some signs of development with toasty, petrol hints - background citrus and light tropicals add to the picture.

On the palate there's honeysuckle and zesty, lively, zippy acid - together with good mineral resolve it adds an extra dimension to the lime and tart citrus before finishing nicely crisp and dry.  89 - Good

Tasted on: Monday 12th November, a Root Day
Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 12%
Closure: Screwcap
Website:http://www.cookslot.com.au

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