d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz 2010

d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz 2010

  11:57    Stu.

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An excellent cellar-worthy prospect here. Gains in stature with time and air; unfurling, stretching and bulking up. If you approach now, please do so with a good decant.

Plum and black fruit, a dusting of dark cocoa powder with sweet oak perfume. Shows good weight on entry, with violets and plums adding to the package.

Touch of char in the middle, a chalky rub of tannin. Big and grunty, excellent length of flavour. Will be long lived. 93

Tasted on: Sunday 7th December, a Root to Flower day 
Source: Sample
Price: $65
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.darenberg.com.au/

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Thoughts on Fourteen

Thoughts on Fourteen

  12:22    Stu.

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I'm not normally one for taking on end of year reviews. But 2014 was a funny fucker. A year of highs, lows, of love and loss.


Mornington Glory
In my little wine world, 2014 started with a trip to the Mornington Peninsula. A trip with a good bunch of wine lovers, each of us coming at wine from different angles. There's nothing of my own work to refer you back to as a recap. 

I freely admit I struggled. I enjoyed the wines. Initially. But my palate couldn't hold up to the demands placed on it from the rigours of extensive tasting. Everything started to taste brutally tannic to me. I couldn't do anything justice. I questioned myself more than I did the wines. 

Queensland Wine Week
From little things, big things grew. A wonderful celebration of Queensland wine. An opportunity to get wine from my adopted home into the mouths of many. Sadly, personal circumstances prevented my full participation. However, my own personal highlight was being able to lead a coach load of folks to the Granite Belt region and introduce them to the people and their products. Here's a little video we made of that day.

Serious Consequences AKA Orange-gate
It was also the year in which Australian wine continued the ascent up its own arse. The wine region of Orange in New South Wales took umbrage at the increasing reference to white wines made from extended skin contact as 'orange' wines. I can understand their point from a legal perspective, understand their desire to protect their GI designation. 

However I'm not sure that people really confuse the two. Have a chuckle at the absurdity in this piece by Max Allen, and if you're still confused about skin contact wines, then Mike Bennie sets the record straight here. 


QWA
I peered into the dark underbelly of the Australia wine show system. This was not Four Corners exposé, rather I volunteered for 3 days as a steward. The system is somewhat at odds with my own tasting regime, where wines are - more often than not - tasted on their own, with and without food, over an extended period.

It was an insight, but more than that it was about camaraderie, of working within your team and supporting your tasting panel.

Of Loss
In 2014 the wine world lost a very unique voice, Jeremy Pringle. Jeremy was someone I looked up to. From my very early forays in and around the world of wine, Jeremy's Wine Will Eat Itself website was a great resource for identifying wines that were of interest to my own growing fascination with wine (and an acknowledgement must go here to Jeremy's friend Keira for keeping the website - and Jeremy's legacy - going. Salut!)

Never one to shy away from criticism, he was a critic in the true sense, but his talent and palate were more than a match for that combative temperament. The wine world is poorer for his loss, and I know many who mourn the loss of friendship.

Wine Cannibalism
And of course Jeremy was right you know. Towards the end of August 2014, it seemed that wine actually would eat itself. An article by Huon Hooke caused uproar. He didn't seem to articulate himself that well and - in my opinion - came out of the affair looking rather out of touch and old fashioned. There were some excellent opinion pieces in response, one that stood out for me was from Tom Hogan (yes, there may be some inferene of bias here, I quite like 'trendy-piss' and would consider Hogan a mate, insofar as my yardstick for a term is "someone I've had a beer with" - no accusations of fence-sitting here).

Whilst neither of the key 'gate' episodes (it's still mandatory to add 'gate' to anything that sets the twittersphere alight isn't it?) - being Orange-gate and Somm-gate - involved me personally, they did leave a slight sour taste in my mouth. Again, questioning my own participation in the small corner of the world in which I sit. 

What next?
As with most things, the good outweighs the bad. I'd still like to get out 'there' more, wherever that may be. Yes, there are plans. There always are.

As with many things it's about balance. Balancing the different roles I play: father, husband, amateur wine hack and somewhere amongst all that there's a full time job to hold down. 

Here's to 2015 then eh?

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Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyard Chardonnay 2013

Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyard Chardonnay 2013

  10:12    Stu.

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Delicate citrus offers itself up, a little grilled nectarine smokiness, toasted almond and nougat.

A sucker punch of tangy, nippy grapefruit acidity has your palate reeling after a delicate intro. A focussed line of acid riven through the wine. 

A little phenolic rub, gentle finish, long on flavour. Concludes with a little gin 'n' tonic freshness and mineral - could have just been me. Much to like here. 92

Tasted on: Saturday 6th December, a Root day
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.leeuwinestate.com.au/

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Willow Bridge Estate 'G1-10' Chardonnay 2013

Willow Bridge Estate 'G1-10' Chardonnay 2013

  06:48    Stu.

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I'm not entirely sure what a G1-10 is. An internet search for the same reveals anything ranging from an environmental protection law to musical instruments through to a French autoroute.

In this guise, we have fine Chardonnay from Western Australia's Geographe wine region.

Made pretty much in the en vogue style: hand-picked with whole bunch inclusion and wild yeast ferments. Sexy. Pull your nose in to make the acquaintance of the smooth skinned flesh of nectarine with a touch of fresh citrus; oak here is a bit player, lending a toasty touch to proceedings.

Stonefruit, melon, minerally with citrus acid; it feels open and loose, yet the citrus acidity provides line and focus on the palate. Leading to generous length, carrying all with it in a final flourish. Give it an extra year and it will really be singing. 93+

Tasted on: Saturday 6th December, a Root day
Source: Sample
Price: $30
Alcohol: 12.9%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: www.willowbridge.com.au

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Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2012

Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2012

  07:52    Stu.

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Bold wine on show here, touches of liqueur, with sappy notes suggestive of the inclusion of some stems. This is fine Pinot.

Carries weight, depth and breadth - big and balanced with hints of sweet oak. Still needs a little time to settle into itself, a bit like the teenager that has shot up in stature.

Silken, fine tannin - you just simply cannot escape that depth of flavour that haunts and follows with an impressive. 94

Tasted on: Friday 5th December, a Fruit to Root day
Source: Sample
Price: $51
Alcohol: 14.2%
Closure: Cork
Website: https://tapanappa.com.au

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Shaw & Smith Pinot Noir 2013

Shaw & Smith Pinot Noir 2013

  07:42    Stu.

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Subtle red fruit, it's a low 12.5% alcohol, by way of cherry and macerated strawberry. Residual spice and creamy vanilla from the oak on display.

Medium bodied, sour cherries - firm, yet with a balancing acidic freshness. Tannin is faint, in balance with the wine overall. Has a bold finish of flavour - but overall is easy to drink. 91 

Tasted on: Friday 5th December, a Fruit to Root day 
Source: Sample
Price: $45
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.shawandsmith.com/

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Hither & Yon Nero d'Avola 2014

Hither & Yon Nero d'Avola 2014

  08:08    Stu.

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Nero lives up to its name here, with an inky darkness emanating from the glass. Seems 2014 was a strong year too (admittedly from a low sample set).

Red and black fruits and something - I wrote at the time - like hanging your head over a pan of sizzling pork and fennel snags. Delightful herbal and spice notes too.

Plump entry - cushioned and soft on the tongue - depth and spice kick-in, a fine rub of tannin. More licorice and fennel seed spice mops up at the back. So delicious, so moreish. Grand drinking for something that can be had for a shade over 20 beans. 91

Tasted on: Sunday 30th November, a Flower day 
Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 13.8%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.hitherandyon.com.au/

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