Alkoomi Frankland River Riesling 2011

Alkoomi Frankland River Riesling 2011

  21:30    Stu.

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Frankland River is pretty well isolated, even in Australian terms. Cool climate, influenced by the Southern Ocean, providing good growing conditions.

This Riesling shows preserved lemons, bath salts, sherbet and suggestions of tropical fruit. Good acid structure, presenting itself early on with citrus weaving its merry way through the palate. Some drying texture offers a counter-point to the acid. Fine on the finish with hallmark elegance and good length.91 - Good

Tasted on: Tuesday 5th March
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://alkoomiwines.com.au

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Ridgemill Estate - Eloise: A Sparkling Debut

Ridgemill Estate - Eloise: A Sparkling Debut

  11:13    Stu.

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"You don't win medals for making Rosé" could well become winemaker Pete McGlashan's equivalent to Homer Simpson's "You don't win friends with salad". 

The Winemaker
As large as life, an affable bloke, McGlashan isn't afraid to share his opinions, and whilst he may not get everything right, in my opinion he is one of the few Granite Belt winemakers to try and reach out, to attempt to engage with an audience. 

Largely through twitter, an increasingly prevalent communications channel, especially for a region quite remote from its largest city, and also from the wider Australian wine community.  I think the region needs it.




The Wines  
The thing is McGlashan, and Ridgemill Estate, did win a medal for their 2012 Estate Rosé (87- Average, $18, 13%) - a wine showing soft berry aromatics, and even hints of gremolata.  Fresh, strawberries dominating the palate, a little spice and phenolics.

The portfolio also includes their premium Black Dog range, only made in better vintages. The 2007 Black Dog Cabernet (90 - Good, $25, 13.5%) shows varietal character of cedar, plum with hints of lavendar, coming across as fresh and elegant. 

Perfect for the coming cooler months, an open fire and bit of stew in the pot, is the 2009 Cabernet Malbec (89 - Good, $30, 13.5%) shows character from each constituent component, black fruits and tarry with hints of licorice, slightly smokey.

This post's eponymous wine, the Eloise (88 - Good, $30) is a good first effort. In a region where few wineries make their own sparkler, Eloise is an aperitif style, in youth it shows some bready character with citrus, and a good clean finish. With subsequent disgorgements you'll be looking to see some toasty complexity to emerge.  

The Winery - A bit of History...
The Ridgemill Estate brand came into being with the purchase of the Emerald winery in September 2004 by current owner, Martin Cooper. Studying engineering in Melbourne in the late 60s/ early 70s, Cooper earned extra money by working and living on a vineyard, including a couple of vintages with Yeringberg at Coldstream in the Yarra Valley.

Ridgemill's first vintage was in 2005, at the time the vineyard was planted to Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay and Tempranillo.  Over time Saperavi has been added, Lagrein too - but since swapped out for Verdelho - and Viognier.  Recently Grenache has been added with two rows grafted over, along with 2 rows of Malbec.

The Region - Strange Birds
I've often wanted to know what is seen as the Granite Belt's signature variety.  The Strange Bird initiative is one that McGlashan had a hand in creating, along with fellow winemaker Jim Barnes of Hidden Creek.  The premise is to celebrate the region's diversity through championing the varieties that are less well known.

But I've often had a nagging question about the region: What is its signature variety? And maybe the Strange Bird is it. Celebrated for the slightly unusual.

For Ridgemill I think that will become Chardonnay (not reviewed here). Ridgemill Chardonnay has shown an evolution in style over the last five years. Both Martin Cooper and winemaker McGlashan stated this was where they see the direction of the variety going for them. Not exactly a strange bird, but possibly showing some pedigree as per its name.
  
The Road Ahead
I speak generally about the region here, perception is a funny thing, but often reality. I see the region as at a bit of a crossroads. Quality is on the up, wineries and their wines are gaining some recognition. 

In addition to that nagging question above, there exists a perception of expectation. We come to certain points of the year when certain regional figureheads - and I stress I speak generally here - tout how well their wines are showing and how they should be supported by the on and off trade.

Expectation can only lead to disappointment. People buy from people, and regardless of how well your wines are showing - whether in a local setting or in any other regional, capital city or state show - you've got to work hard to sell your product.

That crossroads: stay as a largely boutique producer, selling 80% of product to cellar door and mailing list, or look to reach out to consumers and trade buyers. And do so consistently. 

Source: The Vinsomniac was a guest of Ridgemill Estate at the launch of their Eloise Sparkling wine.

Website: http://ridgemillestate.com/
 
You can follow Ridgemill Estate on twitter here: twitter.com/ridgemillestate  or you can follow me: http://twitter.com/TheVinsomniac

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d'Arenberg Peppermint Paddock NV Sparkling Chambourcin

d'Arenberg Peppermint Paddock NV Sparkling Chambourcin

  10:05    Stu.

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Chambourcin, the butt of a few jokes in wine circles, a hybrid variety with a high resistance to fungal disease, making it suited to regions with higher humidity levels. Some say that is so planted in some places as it is the only variety that can be.

Here this NV sparkling has resulted in a plum juice purple wine, vibrant in the glass with notes of lavender, violets and a little herbal twang.

Crunchy, lively mineral edge in the mouth before the onset of blue fruits. Fairly drying, the berry compote and basic texture give a little shape. 89 - Good 
 
Tasted on: Tuesday 5th March, Leaf Day
Source: Sample
Price: $32
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Website: http://www.darenberg.com.au/

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Yelland & Papps Devote Shiraz Roussanne 2011

Yelland & Papps Devote Shiraz Roussanne 2011

  07:26    Stu.

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"Altogether all too drinkable" quipped my wife. Not sure I need say more than that.

Elegant, perfumed, with accented/ higher notes on the berry fruit spectrum. The Roussanne - a white variety and constituting 15% of the wine - seems to have provided a leg up to the wine. It's very fluid, an easy wine to drink and like, not simple though.

Black fruited with with a spicy/ black pepper line through it, carries a dark undercurrent. Fresh, delicious acid freshness on the back palate, excellent length. 93 - Very Good  

Tasted on: Wednesday 27th February, a Fruit Day
Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://yellandandpapps.com

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Rolling Sparkling Pinot Grigio Chardonnay 2012

Rolling Sparkling Pinot Grigio Chardonnay 2012

  06:58    Stu.

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Wouldn't immediately have thought of these two varieties as companions, but interesting bed fellows they make. 

It worked for me. Shows a good deal of fruit on the nose, pear and stonefruit, Hints of of bread character, imbued with a little zest.

Fairly drying palate, good length and acidity, finishes well. Quite happily polished off the remainder too. 87/88 - Average/ Good

Tasted on: Thursday 28th February, a Root Day
Source: Sample
Price: $19
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Cork
Website: http://www.cumuluswines.com.au

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Running With The Bulls Wrattonbully Tempranillo 2012

Running With The Bulls Wrattonbully Tempranillo 2012

  22:04    Stu.

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"The drinker waggled his little finger at him and smiled at us with his eyes. Then he bit the stream off sharp, made a quick lift with the wine bag and lowered it down to the owner. He winked at us. The owner shook the wineskin sadly." ~ Ernest Hemingway, The Sun Also Rises

It's a little like that. Easy to consume, a delight to share in a moment, even if the moment can be fleeting for it's highly consumable. Has a generous perfume with its blue and black fruits, a wee suggestion of coffee sitting in front.

Smooth, a silken scarf of a wine with a little tartness to it, accompanied by a dark, slightly dusty, twiggy, spiced up element. Good length here, a combination of a little tannin and flavour. 92 - Very Good   

Tasted on: Saturday 2nd March, a Flower Day
Source: Sample
Price: $24
Alcohol:14.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: n/a

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Te Whare Ra Gewürztraminer 2010

Te Whare Ra Gewürztraminer 2010

  21:20    Stu.

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Low-input, small scale producer based in the Marlborough sub-region of Renwick. Some of the earliest plantings within the Marlborough region can be found here, and the vines for this Gewürz date from 1979.

Fairly exotic aromatics: turkish delight and rose, a hint of marzipan in the mix. Softer fruit elements by way of some tropicals: lychee, a hint of citrus.

Luscious and layered, textured on entry. Ginger, spice - gives persistence, power and concentration of flavour. Hints of orange oil present on the palate too.

Finishes in a similar manner: luscious, persistent and with a touch of weight. 92 - Very Good 
 
Tasted on: Monday 25th February, a Fruit Day
Source:Retail, Stewart's Wine Co
Price: $35
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.twrwines.co.nz/

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