21:53 Stu.
"So where does the Polperro name come from?" I asked winemaker Sam Coverdale. I secretly hoped he'd reference the Cornish town of the same name, a fantastically idyllic old fishing village, perched on a hillside, fisherman's houses tightly packed in next to each other, the streets atmospheric...alluding to their history, of tales of smuggling; "It's from the town in Cornwall" responded Sam, "my wife's Father had a Practice there...", I smiled within.
I had the pleasure of lunch with Sam, getting to taste his wines, and hopefully getting to understand a little about what makes the man tick, what part of his personality is imprinted upon the wines. A Buderim boy, loves his surf does Sam, a bit of a nomadic winemaker - the influence of his career path as much about what he wants to do as it is about not replicating the decisions forced upon him as part of a winemaking team at a large corporate.
A portfolio that shows clear structure: Polperro wines are strictly single vineyard wines from the Mornington Peninsula, a fundamental belief in allowing site expression; Even Keel a multi-region portfolio whereby wines are made with varieties coming from regions where Sam feels they are a true representation of their kind.
2011 Polperro Pinot Gris, 13.6%, $38, 150 Dozen
From vines approaching 20 years of age, predating the current vogue for production of Gris/ Grigio. This firmly in the former camp. Ticks aromatic boxes with requisite spiced pear. Spicy palate character, lush and textural with a radiating feel through the palate. Barrel ferment character evident, presents an excellent line - all about spice and depth.
2010 Polperro Mill Hill Chardonnay, 12.9%, $48, 150 Dozen
Aromatics a little compact initially, no indication as to the fine, yet assertive palate. Peach, grapefruit and 'nutty' flavours mingle and deliver an exquisite wine of focus, length, precision and intensity. A wine that invites you in, assaults the senses and leaves you dazzled, before reeling you back in for the next wave.
2010 Even Keel Chardonnay, 12.8%, $29, 400 Dozen
A wine that "parts its legs quicker" quipped Sam. Certainly more expressive than the Polperro Mill Hill Chardonnay. Shows good fruit character on the nose, barrel ferment character evident. Texture and weight present - a great line too.
2010 Polperro Mill Hill Pinot Noir, 13.7%, $48, 150 Dozen
From a single vineyard at270m, the same vineyard as the Chardonnay bearing the same site market. A 'pretty' Pinot showing red fruits, sweet accents here too. Good palate presence, a little narrow and singular in focus but excellent length carrying the wine.
2010 Polperro Landaviddy Lane Pinot Noir, 13.8%, $48, 150 Dozen
From a site 170m above sea level, getting the afternoon sun and manifesting itself in the wine. A darker expression than the 'pretty' Mill Hill. Elements of dry leaf matter, evocative of Autumn and shuffling through large piles of fallen leaves as a child. Fuller, more mouth-filling with spice and black depth. Seek comfort in this wine.
Stockists: http://www.evenkeelwines.com.au/
The wines can also be found on the wine lists at such establishments as Restaurant Rapide, Malt and off-premise at The Wine Emporium and Stewart's.
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Footnote: The Vinsomniac was Sam's guest at lunch. Of 6 wines tasted, I wrote about 5 of them. The 6th was an Even Keel Shiraz that in the context of the wines above I chose not to review.
