The Vinsomniac - Stuart Robinson

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Thursday, 6 September 2012

Bungawarra Gewürztraminer 2011

  21:15    

Like myself, this wine is a happy accident.  Made by analysis on numbers, the resultant wine had a little additional RS compared to the normal house style.  It works.  A perfect foil for a little heat and spice of a good Thai.

Poached pear, delicate florals, spice - white pepper - and a little musky note.  The RS brings out a little Turkish delight and rose water on the palate.  Texturally it feels soft, that extra sweetness - but I should say it's not sweet per se - adds a little fuller aspect to the wine, whilst there is the retention of some acid.

A little short on the finish, but sufficient quality on the palate to overlook that.  89 - Good

Source: Cellar Door
Price: $16
Alcohol: 11.7%
Closure: DIAM
Website: http://www.bungawarrawines.com.au/

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Flaxman Wines Eden Valley Riesling 2011

  20:50    

I wonder at what point I'll have to stop mentioning that, yes, whilst 2011 was a challenging year across much of Australia, there are some stellar wines out there.  Very much a producer driven vintage.

 This example shows bruised apple, apple blossom, hints of lime - typical in many Eden Valley Rieslings - and talcum.  Lime and mineral abound on the palate.  It's very tight on opening, possibly quite challenging to the uninitiated, and complex.  Structure is excellent, with the acid flowing, defining length.  

Give it time and it does open up a little.  The lime releasing itself: intense lime cordial-esque, the powerful old vines showing their class, delivering stony, flinty minerality.  The palate broadens, no mono-dimensional linearity here. The finish shows this electrifying acid line.  Encroyable!  93 - Very Good

Source: Sample
Price: $26.99
Alcohol: 11.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.flaxmanwines.com.au/

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TeAro Estate Sweet Petite 2011

  20:21    

A gentle spritz clearly evident, delivering hints of pear, under-ripe apple - further supplemented by a little apricot.  Spritzy, fresh and youthful.  Tropical fruit in the mouth - a little cloying for me personally. 

 See it for what it is though: good, unpretentious fun.  But clearly aimed at those with a fondness for sweeter things in life.  Trying to qualitatively assess such a wine is both difficult and somewhat unnecessary, but still: 87 - Average

Source: Sample
Price: $20
Alcohol: 10%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.tearoestate.com/

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Taylors Winemaker’s Project Botrytis Riesling 2011

  18:10    

The Taylors Winemaker’s Project is an opportunity for their winemakers to spread their wings a little.  To play with different styles, methods and techniques that push boundaries.

The rather fraught weather conditions of 2011 played their hand with this wine.  Grapes normally destined for Taylors flagship St Andrews Riesling developed botrytis cinerea, a fungi that basically removes water from the grape, leaving a higher concentration of sugar.

So, the result is an altogether aromatic profile, blossom, mandarin and peel.  It is actually quite delicate, some botrytis styles can be rather over-unctuous, this has hints of marmalade, and a creamy layered texture to it.   

Good acidity and a great finish.  Perfect for dessert, the rule of thumb is sweet with sweet, and your wine should be sweeter than the dessert served.  I’d suggest passionfruit pavlova.  92 – Very Good 

Source: Sample
Price: $22
Alcohol: 10%
Closure: Screwcap

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Wednesday, 5 September 2012

BK Wines Gower Pinot Noir 2011

  06:39    

From the Gower Vineyard in Lenswood, planted in 1990.  A site that winemaker Brendon Keys had his eye on for some time, attempts to secure the fruit proved, well, fruitless.  That was until the challenging 2011 vintage when the approach was reversed, with the owner approaching Brendon.   Well made, it sees 20% whole bunch and 80% whole berry, spending 40 days on skins.  No additions, natural ferment, unfiltered and unfined (therefore vegan friendly), spending 12months in barrel.
In some respects this wine is the anti-thesis of the prettied up, light, bright Pinots you often see.  Somewhat serious, moodier, brooding with darker fruits – think plum and blackberry – hints of leather and old libraries.  It does get some floral lift with violets adding feint perfume. 

Medium bodied and elegant - seemingly at contrast to the aromatic introduction.  Juicy and refreshing acid with hints of mineral, wet stone.  Some fine underlying tannin provides a gentle persistence in with the mix of fruit. 91 – Very Good


Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $48
Alcohol:11.5%
Closure: Cork

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Monday, 3 September 2012

Yelland & Papps Devote Roussanne 2011

  07:01    

The trick here - as with many white wines - is to not serve too cold, it masks the beautiful aroma.  In Roussanne this can show like "a refreshing herbal tea" and here it manifests itself as delicate florals, honeysuckle, honey coated flakes and gentle grassy/ straw character.

It at turns has this delicacy about it, an almost elfin like demeanour yet the plate shows weight, texture; well structured with hints of tart citrus - but by and large it's not about fruit - it's more the layered texture, complexity and nuances that appeal.

On the finish it's firm and persistent with lingering elements of florals, honey and wet stone.  Good aging potential.  Where will it go?  92 - Very Good 

Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol: 12.6%
Closure: Screwcap

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Saturday, 1 September 2012

Tscharke 'Barossa Grounds' Marananga Grenache 2010

  16:59    

There are some good signs emerging from within the Australian wine industry.  Take for example the increasing focus from producers on wines with a specified notion of place.  That is wines from named locales, vineyards or on a more micro-scale from specified portions of a vineyard.

Tscharke’s Barossa Grounds collection is one such example and this Grenache hails from their Gnadenfrei (literally "Freed by Grace") vineyard in the Barossa’s Western Ridge and the Marananga sub-region.  Typically wines here can be amongst the richest in the region.  This is no exception.

Raspberry and plum, not sweet or confected, nor jammy – you can smell the high quality source material.  Inky black, a wine of depth and with earthen hints, there’s incredible pepper and spice: clove, cardamom with some sweeter notes: muscovado sugar, molasses.  It’s concentrated, possesses fantastic structure and exquisite length.   

Rich, powerful, but you need not be either to get hold of a bottle.  Though I would suggest speed is of the essence for only around 3,000 bottles are produced.  95 – Outstanding 

Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol:15%
Closure: Screwcap

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