The Vinsomniac - Stuart Robinson

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Thursday, 26 July 2012

Mandalay Road Wines Zinfandel 2008

  20:49    

"A Princess.  An alcoholic, potentially jammy Princess, with super-pretty structure, and spice to burn... Bit of a bitch vineyard-wise.  Difficult to ripen without going porty.  Needs care to manage structure, weight" ~ Kate Giles, Byrne Vineyards

Undertaking some research in the twittersphere on Zinfandel in Australia (also known as Primitivo) Kate Giles, of Byrne Vineyards, was generous enough to share her knowledge on the variety.

Mandalay Road is located about 60KMs inland of Bunbury, in a wine-producing region known as Geographe.  The wine itself shows red berry fruit - hints of strawberry, blackcurrant pastille.  It's rustic, savoury showing oak and cedary notes.

Smooth, spice-laden with dry raspy tannin - for a wine at 15%+ it didn't particularly show that level of alcohol.  Savoury, with generous length and a mushroom jus finish.  89 - Good

Source: Sample
Price: $25
Alcohol: 15.2%
Closure: Screwcap

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Friday, 13 July 2012

Shobbrook Nouveau 2011

  15:25    

Shobbrook 2011 Nouveau Mataro bottle image
I've come across this wine a few times, yet this was the first time I'd sat down with a bottle for the purpose of writing it up.

The first thing to say is don't be alarmed by the spritz on opening, the winemaker has intentionally left some undissolved CO2 in the wine - a little like a soda water - and chosen not to filter the wine, making it vegan friendly, and rendering it with the appearance of something like a barley water.

The best description I have heard for this wine is its: "like a frosty fruit with pepper on it".  Not sure I can necessarily better that.

Beyond the initial spritz the wine is a great mix of sweet and savoury, with Mataro's familiar earthen spice juxtaposed against tart, sharp fruit - think sugar plum and juicy tart citrus.

Fun, lively and eminently drinkable it may be but it also has an edge of complexity to itself too.  Whilst made for drinking now, seeing no oak and no sulphur, along with showing little in the way of tannin, the winemaker has commented that it would be fun to see where the undissolved CO2 would go and what preservative properties it may have.  Just enjoy it say I.  90 - Good

Source: Winery
Price: $21
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Cork with wax seal

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Wednesday, 11 July 2012

Tscharke Marananga Mataro 2010

  20:53    

'Barossa Grounds' is a series of new releases from Damien Tscharke aimed at showcasing the Barossa's terroir through a range of Single Vineyard wines.

In the case of this Mataro, it is estate fruit from their Stonewell Vineyard in Marananga, grown on its original root stock.

Hand picked, fermented in an open-top fermenter. Post fermentation its sealed to allow further maceration for a further 20 days.  Pressed, left to settle, racked off lees into new and seasoned french oak (puncheons) for secondary fermentation. 

The wine is racked a further 3 times prior to bottling and is unfined and unfiltered. The wine was in oak for 14 months.

Now, what does it taste like? Plum and cherry, blueberry with hints of blackcurrant set against damp, mulchy earthen savoury character.  Varietally true.  Good entry, no hint of its 15% alcohol, perceived lightness - though it is squarely full bodied -  juxtaposed against dark soy and beef jus character.

Dry, glorious grippy tannin - a glimpse of a peak of acid - bringing on the finish.  Fantastic.  93 - Very Good  

Source: Sample
Price: $32
Alcohol: 15%
Closure: Screwcap

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Saturday, 7 July 2012

Fox Creek Old Vines Shiraz 2010

  14:30    

Stylistically I found this wine making more than the occasional glance backwards to the place where I thought Australian reds were moving away from. It intrigued me to be honest.

The magnificent power of the Old Vine material was clearly shining through, or rather was there to be seen with its depth and power, yet it seemed somewhat overshadowed by a rather confected raspberry jam palate.  Going back to the beginning, it shows good black fruit, tar and earth.  It's rich and ripe, with some perfumed oak bringing it all together.

The length of the wine somewhat overshadowed by the sweet fruited nature.  I think here less would have been more.  When you have such old vine material to work with - and these beauties are centenarian - then respect is due and their inherent power and depth need not necessarily be obscured by layers of sweet nectary fruit.  Still, it holds up well over 2-3 days and so the + mark here is as much to see where that fruit goes with time.  90/91+ - Good/ Very Good

Source: Sample
Price: $50
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap

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Wolf Blass Yellow Label Sparkling Brut 2010

  10:36    

It's generally rather handy to know of an acceptable fizz such as may be required for large gatherings.  This example from Barossa behemoth Wolf Blass incorporates the classic varieties for sparkling: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Hints of lemon curd on approach, flint and a bready/ leesy background.  Some fair persistence with a cut 'n' thrust sherbet attack, I found it quite aggressive and lively in the mouth, not a wine of finesse.  Some creaminess adds a little extra, but it falls some way of a good length.  Decent minerally texture, good aperitif style and at the current direct price of $11 p/b will serve well as mentioned.  87 - Average

Source: Sample
Price: $$17.99 RRP
Alcohol: 11.5%
Closure: Cork

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Friday, 6 July 2012

Flaxman Wines 'The Drone' GMS 2011

  20:48    

Smooth, juicy and fruity blend (60/21/19) aided and abetted by some depth from the Mataro.  You're introduced by way of a spice flecked red and black fruited mix, raspberry and blackcurrant pastille.  There's a little licorice and earth in the equation, but the pleasure for me here was the lightness and ever-so-moreish qualities in possession.

Over two days the fruit takes a little back-seat, and some lightly dusted cinnamon over citrus peel leads you in.  No particular length to shout about, but i reckon you'll be back in for another sip of this one to not worry about that.  Easy going, all in check, more than a nod to the Rhone as much as Eden Valley.  89 - Good

Source: Sample
Price: $26.99
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap

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Sunday, 1 July 2012

Mitchell Harris 'Sabre' 2008

  20:53    

Good things come to those who wait.  Given John Harris's background with Domaine Chandon you would expect to see a method sparkling in the Mitchell Harris stable.  

This 2008 vintage wine was hand picked, primarily tank fermented and seeing no malo.  Some 5% of the base saw the wine undergo wild fermentation in a 5 year old hogshead.  The finished wine  spent some 3 years 'sur latte' - stored laying down with the yeast still in bottle - prior to disgorgement in December 2011.

A lovely golden hued wine, lemon curd and brioche aromas with golden linseed elements wafting out of the glass.  A fine mousse, the wine is minerally and toasty.  The finish fine with a length of generous proportions. 93 - Very Good
Source: Sample
Price: $40
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Diam

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