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Tuesday, 24 January 2012

A.Retief The Alias Mataro 2010



Extensive experience in the industry has Alex Retief: trainee winemaker at CSU, winemaker with the Hunter's Andrew Margan, stints in Bordeaux with Chateau Lagarde, vintage with Cheval Blanc; sales rep for Peter Lehmann in Sydney before starting his own boutique distribution company. Put it all together and you get A.Retief wines.

A Mataro from the Hilltops region.  Some funk sits afront some bacon fat and meaty aromatics.  Ironically it struck me as somewhat Northern Rhoneish - ironic for Mataro cannot ripen there.  

But this wine is at turns black fruited; inky, savoury with some regional pepper in there too.  Incredibly smooth entry, the palate bound up with some Dutch licorice, black strap molasses and spice.  Complex, yet balanced - rich and full. 

Barely any tannin to speak of, that present provides a structure, a vehicle for the wine.  It has an impressive memory, a fine lingering finish.  Only 375 dozen made, Sydney-siders can get a fix at Fix St James; loving the name too: a nod to Mataro's many synonyms, many of which feature on the label.  Thoroughly enchanting: 94 - Outstanding

Source: Sample
Price: $40
Alcohol:14%
Closure: Screwcap

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[This post was edited at 19:38 12/02/2012.  The score of 94 should be 'Outstanding' and not 'Excellent' as by my scoring scale, this was duly changed.]

Saturday, 21 January 2012

Tim Smith Mataro 2009


 A fifteen year career that started out with Yalumba as a cellar hand and most recently as winemaker at Chateau Tanunda, Tim Smith Wines was born of an idea in 2001 whilst drinking Condrieu in the Northern Rhone.

Tim himself states a commitment to the region's proven varietals - including my beloved Mataro.  This example is off of vines circa 50 years old, fruit typically selected from up to four vineyards.

On initially opening it shows itself to be a touch more fruit forward than other Mataros: requisite kirsch and other black fruits.  Initially struck me as more Barossan than of the variety.  Over time, it settles into itself to reveal more black fruited matter with a dominant line of licorice; over two days Szechuan spice tantalises the senses, a lovely line of spice coursing through the wines core.

Entry shows quite a layered wine, thick and syrupy.  A tarriness on the palate takes the wine forward; juice laden and moreish, it finishes just short of a good length.  91 - Very Good

Source:Retail, Cru Cellars
Price: $30 ish
Alcohol:14.5%
Closure: Diam