Yangarra Noir 2019

Yangarra Noir 2019

  08:30    Stu.

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Grenache, 62%; Mourvedre, 12%; Shiraz, 15%; Carignan, 6%; Cinsault, 3%; Carignan, 6%.

A true Southern Rhone blend beyond the usual suspects of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre; each component handled separately, prior to final assemblage. 

Smells a touch rooty on opening, again I stress there's no bunch component, yet 50% whole berry. 

It's light, slick and racy across the palate - a juiciness that cannot be escaped and fails not to freshen. A light rub of tannin, gentle maceration ensuring a fine extraction and delivering length. 

No artifice, all expression of fine fruit and the winemaker's craft. 92

Tasted on: Thursday 10th September
Source: Sample
Price: $27
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.yangarra.com/

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Spinifex Papillon 2019

Spinifex Papillon 2019

  16:30    Stu.

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A double header of sorts, with the 2018 reviewed earlier here. Unsure of the specific blend this vintage so I'll go with what 2018 stated, being Grenache (78%) and Cinsault (22%).

Strength seems to be in a fresh and elegant palate intro that soon gives way to a deeper, tighter middle with a very grain of tannin. 

This wine - compared to the 2018 - feels that year younger at this juncture, the vintage was somewhat of a challenge, albeit with exceptional quality and reduced yields. The initial freshness overcomes that youth. However, I'd still consider it a wait proposition at this stage. 91+ 

Tasted on: Wednesday 20th May
Source: Retail
Price: $25
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://spinifexwines.com.au/

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Spinifex Papillon 2018

Spinifex Papillon 2018

  08:30    Stu.

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Papillon, from the French for butterfly, a Grenache (78%) and Cinsault blend from Pete Schell and Magali Gely, whose family up until recently were vignerons near Montpellier. Pete himself has worked six vintages across Provence, the Languedoc, Bordeaux and Burgundy.

Soft and subtle, it's black fruit ways wafting gently, supplemented with what would appear to be something like cola cube aromatics. Gentle on entry, a flash of fruit and acid enlivens the palate. 

Supple, with a very generous nature that just reels you in. There's a mix of herb, spice and fruit - all bound up in a succulent medium bodied package. 92 

Tasted on: Saturday 16th May
Source: Retail
Price: $30
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://spinifexwines.com.au/

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d'Arenberg Stephanie The Gnome With Rose Coloured Spectacles Rosé 2019

d'Arenberg Stephanie The Gnome With Rose Coloured Spectacles Rosé 2019

  20:25    Stu.

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Pouring a darker hue than the trend, as is Stephanie's wont. Cranberry, hints of toffee apple.

Dry with an immediate punch of acid, as if to clear the palate for the modicum of fruit that sweeps across the palate; macerated strawberry and hints of citrus oil give the impression of freshness. 

A textural roundness gives some volume, but it is found wanting in other areas, feeling a little disjointed. 86 

Tasted on: Saturday 26th October, a Root day 
Source: Sample
Price: $18
Alcohol: TBC
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.darenberg.com.au/

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Brash Higgins MCC 2017

Brash Higgins MCC 2017

  14:16    Stu.

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A blend of Mataro (50%, all whole bunch), Cinsault (30%, all whole bunch), and Carignan (20%, whole berry).

Deliciously light, airy - it comes across herbal, tomato leaf, juicy in feel and offer. Light and lithe, fine and filigree tannin without so much substance. Aspects of cherry and plum add to the overall package. 

Light and crunchy, airy in feel. Good midweek option clocking in at a mere 12.5%. 89 

Tasted on: Wednesday 11th September, a Root day 
Source: Winery Purchase
Price: $30
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: https://www.brashhiggins.com

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d'Arenberg The Cenosilicaphobic Cat Sagrantino Cinsualt 2012

d'Arenberg The Cenosilicaphobic Cat Sagrantino Cinsualt 2012

  08:30    Stu.

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Unsure what happened to this release, whether it was forgotten about, laying dormant for some time, or it actually is intended to be released as a 7 year old - rather unusual. 96% Sagrantino, 4% Cinsault.

Cherry, Plum, woody spice - almost exotic, with its fragrance lifting gently out of the glass. Drying, powdery tannin structure. Savoury, very little of the fruit presence, yet retaining the acidity. Remnants of oak linger, it's home for 24 months. It certainly needs some form of protein to lap up the gravelly tannins. 92

Tasted on: Monday 18th February, a Leaf day 
Source: Sample
Price: $29
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap 
Website: www.darenberg.com.au

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Spinifex Luxe Rosé 2017

Spinifex Luxe Rosé 2017

  14:27    Stu.

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Exceptional Rosé here a blend of Mataro (51%), Grenache (38%) and Cinsault (11%).

Winemaker Peter Schell explains, "Luxe is selected from only those (rosé) parcels that have particular aromatic and textural complexity - we are drawn to sections that display what we call secondary fruit - fresh and dried flowers, herbs, spice, minerality, white and green tea-like aromatics - rather than primary fruit - fresh berry fruits etc." It is, therefore, little surprise that the wine is rich in savoury Mataro fruit.

This is a wine that invites on colour alone, that it delivers in spades is testament to its quality. Produced only in exceptional years, this 2017 instance opens with aromas that seem to shift between cassis, pomegranate, with provencal herbs. 

The palate is lean and long. Suggestion of citrus peel, white pepper, coriander seed even. It's complex, yet beautifully poised and balanced, a testament to the terroir and winemaker's hand. 

It's a wine of delicate, almost unyielding, length - of the savoury, of dried herb (had me thinking of oregano and thyme). More please. 94  

Tasted on: Thursday 12th October, a Flower day
Source: Retail
Price: $30
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.spinifexwines.com.au/

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Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2013

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2013

  07:48    Stu.

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Mataro dominant blend, with Grenache, Cinsualt and Carignan (50/28/20/2% respectively).

Berry fruits, citrus - savoury, woody and herbal twists; of scrub, garrigue, the sun beating down onto a Mediterranean twinkling its azure blue wink; of oligarchs and molls, yachts bobbing on the waves, draining this by the case.

Strawberry, rhubarb, hints of citrus; spice, a little coriander seed, a touch wild. Dry, tart, savoury, latent cranberry - summer in a glass. Effortless, so good. 93

Tasted on: Saturday 7th March, a Fruit to Root day
Source: Retail, Cru Bar & Cellar
Price: $45-50
Alcohol: 
Closure: Cork
Website: http://domainetempier.com/

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Notes From a Big Country...

Notes From a Big Country...

  11:56    Stu.

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I love the ironic nicknames that are often given in Australia: Shorty for the individual who’s not exactly vertically challenged; Blue for the redhead; Curly for the chap that is a little challenged in the follicle department; Chuckles for an individual with a serious demeanour. Which provides me with a contrived way to segue to the host for Swirl, Sniff, Spit’s ‘American’ wine tasting - Brad Hickey,  AKA 'Brash Higgins'. A man who is anything but. Calm, thoughtful, considered, generous with time and knowledge.

And so it was that this former Wine Director for 2 Michelin Starred New York eatery Bouley, turned McLaren Vale winemaker - by way of that familiar tale of having found love - found himself at Brisbane Gastro-bar Statler & Waldorf, displaying that generosity of knowledge to a crowd of gathered wine lovers.

We started our journey with the thriving wine industry in and around Long Island. Charles Massoud, founder of Paumanok in the Spring of 1983. Again a familiar tale, though the industry may differ. Having made his money in banking, Charles moved his family out to North Fork of Long Island. Today, with son Kareem at the winemaking helm, Paumanok is the only producer of Chenin in Long Island. Vines planted in 70s, picked early to be fresh, bright, spends 3 months in s/steel – seeing no oak. Hickey advises that it has become something of a cult wine in Long Island (and remarks that its all the more surprising that Paumanok are the only producer). The 2012 Paumanok Chenin Blanc - Fresh and crisp golden delicious, tropical hints. The palate sees a wine fresh, a real sense of life and vitality there – zest, zing and mineral; fades away on a good length. 92

Then we head North-West, to the Finger Lakes region, in the far North East reaches of New York state. The region gains its name from the spindly, deep glacial lakes (some 2 KM deep). The area has proven itself suited to aromatic whites: Riesling, Gewürztraminer etc, but it wasn’t always so. Hermann Wiemer is now seen as a pioneer of the region. Thought crazy initially, he turned out to be the smart one. Hermann J. Wiemer “Dry” Riesling 2012, Glorious perfume here: floral, candies, touch of tropical.blossom character. A little residual sugar, textural - pillowy softness, textural finish with a thread of lasting apple. 91

Moving over to the West Coast, California - undoubtedly the most famous of the US’s wine producing states, although as Hickey states wine is made in each of the states of America, quality varying widely across them, experience has shown those states in closer proximity to the moderating influences of the oceans tend to have the qualitative edge. The Dutton-Goldfield “Dutton Ranch” Chardonnay, of the Russian River AVA (American Viticultural Area) is a collaboration between two gents: Steve Dutton (Viti) and Dan Goldfield (Winemaker). The Dutton Family has huge holdings, winemaking sees use of top French barrels, lots of lees stirrings to build complexity. 2012 is regarded as an excellent vintage. Initially gives the sense of being a little mute, cajoling the wine gives a core of citrus, pear and a suggestion of stone fruit. But its the texture that wins out: creamy, vanilla oak; nuts-cashew – on a good length. Bit of minerality adds complexity and rewards each sip, staying power, longevity. 92

Back across the East Coast again. Traversing the great nation, feeling like the great Sal Paradise. Now to Channing Daughters with their 2010 “Meditazione” white Friulian Blend. Chris Tracy, a friend of Brad’s, Channing Daughters' winemaker and partner in the business. Chris introduced new grape varieties such as Tokay Friulano, the intent was to try and play with climate – the belief that Merlot was not suitable for the region. The ‘Mediatizione’ is a blend of 6-7 varieties: 28% Muscat Ottonel, 20% Chardonnay, 18% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Pinot Grigio, 10% Tocai Friulano, 5% Viognier, 5% Aligote, 2% Semillon – picked at the same time and fermented together. This ‘orange’ wine spends about 20 days on skins. Destemmed, co-fermented together, 1 year in new Slovenian and some older second and third use oak. Shows almond/marzipan, butterscotch, florals, lychee, hints of stone fruit and a touch of earl grey tea. There’s plenty going on - phenolic bitterness, grip – frangipani tarts and vanilla/creme. That grip – lasting, on a very good length. Unyielding almost. 92/3
 
Back to California we go, about an hour drive north of Sonoma, a location that is providing cheaper fruit options for younger sets than those found further South. There the Idlewild guys found some old vines out there. Grenache Gris is pretty rare, often made into white wines in France. Here it’s made in style of a Rosé, but with bite. Idlewild's Grenache Gris, Gibson Ranch, Mendocino, CA, a but of Raspberry leaf, boiled lolly; leaf, raspberry – red fruit cordial notes on the palate with a little herb in there too, snap of acid and lingering spice. Not necessarily the greatest length. Would probably show better on its own and in more appropriate stemware. 89

Grenache specialists A Tribute to Grace Grenache provide our next introduction. New Zealand native Angela Osborne moved to California in 2006 with a dream to make Grenache. Boy has she done so. Light, pretty, aromatic: strawberry, cherry and a little citrus. At contrast to the palate where the wine possesses a bit of body. Given time the wine shows softer…almost pillowy sense to it. Spice, depth, length - gorgeous wine. Of many parts. 93
 
North again to ‘neighbouring’ Oregon for the 2010 Sineann Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley. Peter Rosback established Sineann in 1994. Owning no vineyard, fruit is sourced from the finest vineyards in the region. Showing resinous notes - something I see in Willamette PNs - smoked tea; darker notes. Possessing good structure, floaty tannins latterly; spice, good length 89
 
South again back to California for Peay Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast. Peay is a labour of love for Vanessa Wong winemaker – cult winemaker for others – who, with her husband and brother-in-law sought out some fruit, Sonoma coast about 4miles from coast,  above the fog line. Marginal location - some might say perfect for fickle Pinot Noir. Strawberry, wild strawberry, green herbal/ slight pine edge; soft, concentrated, compact – soft almost spongey tannin/ structure. Excellent finish - good vitality. 92
 
Brad Hickey spoke of Matthew Warwick, a new breed of winemaker – looking at and pursuing alternatives (similar to Australian ‘side projects’ crew); Dutch parentage, a Navy gulf war veteran. An intellectual, smart; making serious wines with Cabernet. Forlorn Hope – comes from Dutch ‘hoop’ or troop/ tribe: 2010 Forlorn Hope “Mil Amores, Dewitt Vineyard”, (Touriga Nacional, Tinto Roriz, Trincadeira) from the Sierra Foothills, essentially port blend, but fermented dry as a table wine. Florals, purple fruit, lavender perhaps; Fruitcake, smooth, plush, on a Reasonable length. 91/92

Another unusual blend, the 2011 Scholium Project “Gardens of Babylon” Red Blend, CA from the hands of Abe Schoener, academic – philosophy professor. Hickey advises that Abe’s wines have a story – playing on the philosophy angle. Unusual red blend: Cabernet Sauv, Petite Sirah, Cinsault. 300 case production only. Spicy, lifted, florals; savoury, woody notes. Blue/black fruit with tart fruit acidity.
Short on length, good snap of acidity and flavour. 90
 
In a final bracket pitched as ‘typical’ American wines, Zinfandel labelled the ‘American’ grape. Ed Meades is one of the earliest plantings of the variety, with Dr Edmeades plantings in the late 60s. Now owned by Jackson Family, purchased in the 80s. The 2011 Edmeades Zinfandel, Mendocino County, CA. Lavender, red, blue and black fruits - quite pretty still with spice riven through the wine. 91/2

In the context of Californian wine, La Jota is a grandaddy. The Howell Mountain area has become highly sought after high altitude growing location, vines at 600m. The 2008 La Jota “Heritage", Howell Mt. Cabernet Sauvignon, spends two years in new French oak - it shows. Abundance of Black fruit, cassis, cedary notes. Full, but a lovely innate sense of balance; minerality. Dark, dusty, fine graphite mineral. Excellent length. Structure and fruit quality for the long haul. 93

Tasted on: Tuesday 19th August, a Root Day
Source: Swirl, Sniff, Spit
Price: $Various
Alcohol: Various

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Spinifex Rose 2010

Spinifex Rose 2010

  21:08    Stu.

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A blend of Mataro, Cinsault, Grenache and Shiraz (45/25/23/7%) and a glorious pale pink.  There are certain things that you eat or drink that have the ability to transport you.  This, despite hailing from the Barossa takes me to a hillside villa in Provence, overlooking a field of lavender gently snaking in the breeze.

Its aromas of rose and even a touch of the ubiquitous boiled sweet lead you into a mid-weight palate, where some spice makes way for a dry and savoury finish.

Dangerously chuggable, though one has to advocate responsible consumption lest you start dreaming too much about that Provencale hillside villa.

Source: Gift

Price: $20

Alcohol: 13.5%

Closure: Screwcap

Website: http://www.spinifexwines.com.au/

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Quattro Mano Duende 2009

Quattro Mano Duende 2009

  08:55    Stu.

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Beautiful label.  Reminds me of Portuguese tiling, a country where I spent many a summer as a youth.  Sadly I wasn't quite into wine in the manner which I am now, so I never got the opportunity to sample some of its vinous goodnesss.

The wine is a blend of what I would consider Iberian grapes: Touriga (37%), Tinta Amarela (22%), Tinta Cão (22%) and Cinsault (19%).  It is borne of the Barossa, but you wouldn't really know it.

The aroma has a slight plummy note that gives a hint of the medium bodied wine within.  The palate sees more of the same, good mixed fruit, it gave me the impression of a baked fruit pudding.  It really didn't strike me as Barossan at all.

The wine concludes with more of the same, it is just a really consistent fruit driven wine with a touch of spice in there somewhere, minimal, not borne of oak.

It isn't a complex wine that will blow you away, or a cerebral wine that will challenge, rather it is a fairly simple wine whose fruit driven charms are likely to delight.  For me, its good to see something like this coming out of the Barossa, an effective blend from some lesser known varietals.

Source: Retail, Spiros Toowong

Price: $22

Closure: Screwcap

Website: http://www.quattromano.com.au/

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