As I embark on this journey and pursue my liquid education, there are occasions where I am fortunate enough to come across wines that make you weep. And then there are those moments when you come across wines that make your nipsy shrink by their sheer dazzling beauty and brilliance. To find such wines with a storyteller as charismatic as Luca Currado is a truly enlightening experience.
Roero Arneis DOCG 2009 (approx. $50)
A historical point first: Luca’s father apparently was the first to make this style of Arneis first back in 1967. Previously it had been blended up with leftover Nebbiolo. The intent was to make a Mosel style wine with 8-10 g/l RS but it came out dry. Beautiful aromatics: peach, delicate blossom. Arneis has 10 times the Glycerol of normal whites and it shows in the luscious texture and slippery feel.
Dolcetto d’Alba Tre Vigne DOC 2009 (approx $40)
Made from 100% Dolcetto (meaning “little sweet one”); fruit laden – exhibiting fresh dark fruit aromas.
Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne DOC 2008 (approx $45)
Luca is a fierce proponent of Barbera and related how – at his bidding – a Grand Cru Barolo site was replanted with Barbera without his father’s knowledge. Luca regaled how with the site in question you could produce anything – even bananas. Suffice to say he was sprung by his father – but his work was done. He considers this wine as representing Vietti – the consumer’s first impression of Vietti. Exhibiting this beautiful plum and cherry aroma. In the mouth: lithe, supple, ethereal. The finish is persistent, the wine has this incredible balance.
Bracket Two
Perbacco Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2007 (approx. $60)
Incidentally Perbacco means something loosely translating to “oh my gosh”. Beautiful aromatics: dark aromas, almost charry, roasty with hint of bitumen. Slavonian Oak for neutrality. Big, concentrated and drying. Nicey nice.
Perbacco Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2008 (approx. $60)
Dark notes again, yet lighter in body – almost a floral element compared to the 2007. Still firm, tannin present – but less so (in context of Nebbiolo) than 2007.
Barolo Castiglione DOCG 2006 (approx $150)
The best barrels of Castiglione make it into this wine, the rest is effectively declassified and makes up the Perbacco. Luca commented that its not your regular Barolo. that said, it was beautiful with an aniseed aroma. Lively – almost alive. Errol Flynn like length – if you catch my drift. Slight marzipan/ almond note detected on the finish.
Barolo Castiglione DOCG 2007 ($approx $150)
Very concentrated, very drying. Tobacco and leather dominate – yet there is still some red fruit character present. Lucas stated that he is seeking finesse and elegance, and doesn't want it to be too massive. I was probably weeping by this point. Yet there were another four wines to come.
Bracket Three
Barolo Rocche Castiglione Falletto DOCG 2007 (approx. $280)
Aromas abound, the usual suspects: chocolate, cherry. But the body is almost velvet like, complimented by soft, round tannin. I’m not sure I can do this justice.
Barolo Brunate La Morra DOCG 2007 (approx. $280)
As Luca describes it: the Angelina Jolie. Dark cherry and a touch of floral notes. Punch through the middle – wow! Dry, raspy and oh so persistent tannin.
Barolo Lazzarito Serralunga d’Alba DOCG 2007 (approx. $280)
Described as a “more nervous” The body exhibiting more fruit than the previous two – less intense. Exhibits pepper through the finish, the finish incredibly drying tannin. In the context of the above, less concentrated, amongst mere mortals it would stand on the shoulders of giants.
Barolo Riserva Villero Castiglione Falletto DOCG 2004 (approx. $500)
Luca described this as an “emotional wine”. A riserva has only been made 6 times in the last 30 years. A wine, not for today - a wine of heritage. A wine to drink with your children, or grandchildren. Incredible depth and intensity of aroma. Balsamic vinegar, tobacco, leather, dried flowers. My lord – I could go on. The body: rich, elegant. Such depth. It’s like a silken scarf, tannin is measured; definite, firm and persistent – yet refined. Think Don Draper delivering his best sales pitch, delivering a trademark one-liner.
A mix of Lagrein and Dolcetto and an early attempt at future proofing (2003 first vintage), winemaker Ben Glaetzer: "it looked ideal for SA (specifically the Creek) because it has very good natural acidity, thick skins and dense, hardy canopy meaning that it remains fresh with good acid balance and the canopy prevents sunburn and the cooked/stewed flavours that can result.".
