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Showing posts with label 2005. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2005. Show all posts

Sunday, 8 March 2015

Ridgemill Estate 'Black Dog' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005


"This black dog is out of control
My mouth is so dry
My eyes are shut tight
There's a black dog a coming tonight"
~ Manic Street Preachers, Black Dog On My Shoulder

"I wish I could have 2005 again" quips winemaker Peter McGlashan, "the chance to apply  what I've learned since, to what was a stunning vintage". The vintage in question was 2005, a cracker by all accounts, the first vintage where wines were produced under the Ridgemill Estate name.

At ten years old this was still throwing a fair bouquet of primary fruit: black cherry, cassis - a medley if you like - and held up over 24-48 hours. Background hints of black licorice strands add an edge, not dominant, just enough to be present.

Medium bodied, fruit flows to the palate. With time the wine held its structure, powder-fine tannin and acid inherent, fruit subsiding with that time.

Good presence, residual tannin, gentle and persistent length. Would suggest easily another five years in reserve, pushing ten. If only anybody had some left. 92

Tasted on: Saturday 28th February, a Flower day
Source: Shared with the winemaker at dinner
Price: $ n/a
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://ridgemillestate.com/

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Monday, 15 October 2012

Castagna Genesis Syrah 2005


Bottle image - Castagna Genesis Syrah 2005
Borrowed from winehouse.com.au
If there was any wine that made me realise that wine scribes are not infallible, it was this.  A distinctively average score form an individual lauded by many as the premier writer in Australia.  I'll say no more, save to say I don't agree with his assessment.

I've never seen a wine shift as much as this either over the 3 days of drinking - well, shift around and still retain a fantastic sense of drinkability.

I last looked at one around early 2010, my over-riding memory of that wine was of violets, violets and crushed black and red fruits.  Now, on day one it was more about savoury charm.  Of sandalwood, dried herbs, roasted meat.  Intoxicating.  Spice and pepper abound, fronting up against concentrated black fruits.  Day 2 saw the small percentage of Viognier more noticeable and day 3 it showed more of tomato, sweet sugo.

It's a fine wine, a wine of balance, poise.  It's well integrated, showing more wild herb character on the palate.  Incredibly smooth, there's a wave of refreshing fruit: of blueberry and blackcurrant, carrying flavour, awash through the mouth, freshening the palate before some incredibly fine tannin.  I'm glad there's three more whence this came.  96 - Outstanding

Tasted on: 13th (Fruit) and 14-15th (Root) October
Source: Retail, Cloudwine
Price: $65 in a 6 pack, normally around $90-95
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Diam
Website: http://www.castagna.com.au/

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Thursday, 31 May 2012

Zette Cahors 2005


Zette is a secondary label of the rather well known Domaine de Lagrézette, owned by luxury goods label Cartier, with wine production overseen by the Rolls-Royce driving Michel Rolland.

This wine is made in a slightly more modern style, entirely tank fermented, but still exhibiting good Cahors character.  Cahors is situated South and East of Bordeaux, on the Garonne river, appellation rules state a minimum of 70% Malbec in the wines.

Wild herb and hints of wild flower around a core of dark damson and spice tinged fruit.  The palate shows a wine of medium weight, concentration with a core of juicy berry and sour cherry fruit.  Good raspy, firm tannin.  Of moderate length, good tannic framework providing the structure.  90 - Good

Source: Vinomofo
Price: $15
Alcohol:
Closure: Cork
Importer: www.discovervin.com.au

Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Yalumba Single Site Habermann Vineyard Grenache 2005


Kevin Glastonbury oversees the production of some of my favourite wines out of Yalumba's rather significant portfolio, including this cracker from the Single Vineyard series.  He seems a cracking bloke too - kindly guiding this individual at the Brisbane RNA earlier this year when I was a tad lost.

Hand picked and then crushed to 8 tonne open fermenters. Initially wild  yeast fermented before some cultured yeasts applied to sustain fermentation.  Fruit off of a single site, planted in 1972, in the Bethany sub-region, grown on deep dark clay.

At 6 years of age the wine is still showing some significant fruit presence: raspberries and redcurrants, intermingling with some chocolate and sweet perfumed oak.

Lovely texture in the middle, creamy oak feel - and it is this that really the wine's lasting memory: a loving, voluptuous embrace.  A wee spike of heat before earthen spice shows itself providing a finish of moderate length, integrated tannin.

Source: Retail, The Wine Emporium
Price: $55
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Website: www.yalumba.com

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Thursday, 26 May 2011

Deisen Mataro 2005


Good to see Mataro getting some shelf space in its own right, rather than as a component of a GSM blend.  That said, the best examples come from old vines, as the Teusner crew proclaim: "A young root is just no good!".

This example from 2005 was clearly one of the early trend-setters in bringing a single variety Mataro to the party.

It smells of Black Forest gateaux, with a dark mass of black fruit at its core.  Leathery, earthy and even though it is six years old, still the presence of some good primary fruit.

Tarry notes carry through the palate where a touch of creaminess radiates out.  Good, definite and persistent finish - one of those wines where the flavour lasts long after it has slid down your throat.

Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $39
Alcohol: 14.5%$
Closure: Cork

Saturday, 2 April 2011

Deisen Grenache 2005


Halliday's not a fan.  I can see why, but wine is more than what is purely just in the glass.  It's about stories, memories, set and setting - terroir of the mind or some such.  And for these reasons, I am.

Deisen wines were first brought to my attention as one part of a fantastic dinner with some dear friends at Appelation in the Barossa valley in 2009.  Beautiful labels too are also a draw, and stories abound with regard to vignerons Sabine Deisen and partner Les.  Stories of the Deisen fruit going into Rockford's basket press and also to John Duval; of old vines being pulled up as part of the vine pull and Robert O'Callaghan not getting to Sabine in time to prevent this, for he knew of the quality of the fruit; of re-planting vines at Rocky's encouragement, asking Wayne Dutschke to make the wines for her, for him to encourage and mentor her through learning to do it herself (thanks Campbell Mattinson for that last one).

It's not just a liquid in a glass, but ultimately that's what the Punter is buying.  So, at 6 years old this one is showing secondary development, the brackish hue around the edge, moving away from the gloss of youth.

Aromas of dusty earth, dried herb; gone is the primary fruit of youth.  The palate shows an unexpected lightness, there's a faint touch of red berry flavours - raspberry - and some cola cube, but it is the wine's smoothness that draws you in only to be somewhat overshadowed by the alcohol and spice on the finished.

It's not particularly balanced, not or is it over bearing (if you're used to such things).  I like to think that it is a product of its place: a sponge that soaked up that Barossan sun and placed it into the grapes from which this came.

Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $37 (RRP when released)
Alcohol: 15.5%
Closure: Cork

Wednesday, 26 January 2011

Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Reserva Rioja 2005


One issue with having limited experience of a particular variety is that you are not really familiar with a stylistic interpretation.  That said, I can only call out a particular wine as I see it.

I picked this up as a nod to a good wine drinking buddy, The Wine Punter, who had recently had returned from a sojourn around North Africa and the Iberian Peninsula with a love for the Rioja.

This 100% Tempranillo Reserva opens to a dusty, earthy nose that is a little flat rather than the expectations of fullsome fruit that I had expected.  There was a little dark fruit present with a background shroud of oak.  On the palate, the dark fruit represents itself, along with a vein of oak that was wrapped up with some smoky/ charry notes.  It was delivered with a silken finish that was further expressed with some fine tannins and a resurrection of the gentle spice.

Look, it was OK.  It wasn't overwhelming me, frying my bacon, flicking my switch -you know?.  I had to look hard for some of these notes.  My over-riding opinion was that it was just a little 'flat'.

A duff bottle perhaps?  At $30 I'm not inclined to revisit.

Price: $29.95
Closure: Cork

Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Mike Press Wines Dinner


A distinguished 42 year career working for some of Australia's biggest names (Penfolds, Seppelts, Krondorf), Chief Winemaker for Mildara Blass, Jimmy Watson winner...some pretty impressive stuff, thus an opportunity to taste Mike's range of wines including verticals of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon wasn't to be turned down.

Thoughts of retiring to the Adelaide Hills on 85 acres, 30 of which Mike and Judy planted in 1998 with Shiraz (10), Cabernet (10), Merlot (5) and Pinot Noir (5) plus a further 30 (20 Merlot and Chardonnay 10) the following year, the intent was to grow premium grapes and on-sell to South Australian wineries.

A downturn in grape prices led to the decision to make the wine themselves, with a conscious decision to price to what they had expected to receive for the grapes plus a small margin.  That decision, plus a sales strategy of selling direct and through selected retailers only, has led to a growing number of fans.  This blog is one of them.  It was the profile-raising work of Tyson Stelzer and Matthew Jukes, and their influential, and now sorely missed missed (for it is now longer published) annual publication Taste, that brought MP Wines to my attention.

I didn't take any notes of own on the night, preferring to enjoy the wines.  Instead when Mike and Tyson introduced the Shiraz and Cabernet flights I took the time to record some of their words.

2005 Shiraz: 2-3 years left in it, 100% American Oak and become a bit refined in its old age.
2006 Shiraz: A different wine, Mike wasn't sure why.  Developing into a lovely elegant European styled Shiraz.  Will go a long way.
2007 Shiraz: Fuller than previous years, lovely sweet wood - uses American Oak and lots of it.
2008 Shiraz: a hot year (15.5% on the label), out of a miserable year this was salvaged, will last the least of the Shiraz.
2009 Shiraz: Developing now and showing glimpses of how it will become.  Elegant, beautiful tannins, a wine with much potential.  Look at it in 5 years time.

Mike fielded some questions from the floor, one of which was on the extensive use of American Oak, Mike's response received a warm response: "American Oak suits Shiraz, I'm a product of Shiraz and Penfolds"

My notes on the Cabernets are less detailed than the Shiraz.  Being the 2nd flight of the night, I cannot think why that may be...

Tyson was of the firm opinion that the "Cabernet is the star variety here" and emphasised that Mike's wines are from his own fruit off a single vineyard.  On the 2009 Cabernet it was offered that "to really appreciate what this wine's about, cellar it, look at in 5-10 years time.  Treat it like a serious, expensive wine". 

That the Cabernet is available direct for $167 per dozen, delivered, makes this a tempting proposition.  A few retailers still have the Shiraz available for around $150 a case plus delivery.  Do it, you know you want to.

Price: $80
Closure: About midnight.

Tuesday, 4 January 2011

Hoddles Creek Estate Chardonnay 2005


I've little frame of reference for Aussie Chardonnay.  I don't subscribe to the "Anything But Chardonnay" group, preferring to think of Aussie Beautiful Chardonnay instead.  That said, this wine is exactly how I like Chardonnay to be.

Aroma of varietal stonefruit: peach and nectarine; a touch of grapefruit and some good quality lightly toasted oak present.  The palate takes things to another level.  The oak is present again, supporting the fruit to deliver a taut, slightly minerally, driven wine.  It thrusts back towards the back plate and a finish that delivers more toasty, spicy oak and the fruit that was present on the nose.

A seriously good wine - the best thing is it still available from Bocaccio, and at only $24.99 is a steal.  I've single bottles of the 2006 and 2007 too and I'm really looking forward to seeing how those look.

Source: Retail, Boccacio Cellars
Price: $24.99
Closure: Screwcap

Thursday, 30 December 2010

Teusner Avatar 2005


I opened this for my wife the day after Boxing Day, she was looking for something "good" and knowing her fondness for Barossan beauties, I pulled this number out.

This was a perfect example of how a good decant can help a slightly older wine shake off its cobwebs and really show itself off to its true strengths.

Initially it was earthen aromas with a background of sweet Barossan fruit, the palate a mix of stewed red fruits on the palate.  The finish was spicy, more specifically a quatre-epice mix; it was spice that lingered.

Once it had opened up though the palate changed,  the spice settling down for some vanilla and coconutty oak coming through; the finish altogether much more gentle.

Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $40
Closure: Cork
Website:www.teusner.com.au

Dutschke Gods Hill Road Four Vineyards 2005 Shiraz


Suffice to say I'd never really known what "funkiness" was in wines, or more specifically what a writer was referring to when it was referenced in a tasting note.

On Christmas Day my wife and I cracked a Witches Falls 2006 Syrah (see previous post) and the immediate aroma was of sulphur.  The following day, Boxing Day, I opened this wine and experienced the same thing.  Through further research I found a useful website which offered some background on understanding how the "funky" aroma can present itself.  Useful reading indeed for me as a wine student.

Once I'd decanted this wine and given it a good 20-30 minutes, it settled down.  Vanilla on immediate entry followed by some warmth/ spice.  In the mouth, smooth and plummy; the finish all spice and fruit coming through.

Source: Retail, Purple Palate
Price: $?
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.dutschkewines.com/

Wednesday, 24 November 2010

McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2005


The Mount Pleasant "Lizzy" typically offers excellent drinking for a wine that has been winery aged for four years. However "Lizzy" has caused much discussion amongst wine folk of late, for McWilliam's has released an Elizabeth branded wine as a young 'un - a 2010 Elizabeth.

Further, for many of the pro reviewers, it appeared that this wine, the 2005, had skipped a release cycle and hasn't been highly visible on retailers' shelves nor been sent for review. Thus, when I spied it in the fridge of a local retailer, I jumped at the chance to give it a go.

Typical golden hue with a green edge, as expected for a Semillon with a little age. Aromas of lemon - compared to the predominant lime on the 2006, toast and a slight waxiness. It appeared a lot fresher than the 2006, despite that additional year in bottle.

On the palate, there was plenty of varietal citrus, but that was about it. Some acidity to the back palate; more of the toasty notes were present and the acidity present did build to a pleasant finish.

Source: Retail (Spiros, Paddington)
Closure: Screwcap
Price: $18 retail (can normally be found around $13 in 1st/ Dan's)
Winery: http://www.mountpleasantwines.com.au

Sunday, 29 August 2010

Wine and Friends


There is something rather warming in being able to share a bottle of something with friends. It doesn't necessarily have to be something special; some cheap sparkles to celebrate a birthday, a chilled Rose at a BBQ, a bottle of that great Shiraz from your holiday to the Hunter - each has a place, a moment and an opportunity to introduce friends to a part of you.

So it was that I invited some friends over on Saturday night to partake in the consumption of a few choice drops. Dinner was included too and a starter of some chilli and garlic olives, mettwurst, a ovely fresh ciabatta placed in the centre of the table and offered with some prosciutto, fresh buffalo mozzarella and pesto was a great way to kick start appetites and introduce the first wine.

Australia's Gift to the World of Wine?
Sparkling red wine, to me, is something uniquely Australian. It was first introduced to me in the UK and quickly became a staple at Christmas with roast Turkey. There is something so wrong, et also so right with it. Served in a champagne flute, the mousse is there, yet it has a ribena like hue to it, a deep garnet colour. The wine in question a Majella Sparkling Shiraz disgorged in 2005.

Many bag the sparkling red, some even finding it a little cringeworthy. Not here. It often has a place in my glass/ fridge/ cellar. This particular example in question had the right colour attributes for me, the flavour profile was balanced too - a little sweetness to get the evening underway. It did not last long and was soon followed by a Meadowbank Henry James Pinot Noir from Tasmania's Coal River. Excellent fine tannins, delicate fruit profile without the 'elevated' profile of some Pinot Noir. An excellent follow on from the sparkles!

Main Course
Two delightful individuals of the Brisbane food and wine scene, Ryn and Cordie, who I have had the privilege of sharing a glass or three with (see BYO Favs & Pizza), have self-published a book that demystifies the pairing of food and wine. Not just a 'dry' volume on the subject, it is also a beautifully presented cookbook. From it, I opted to prepare the slow cooked Moroccan beef checks.

My own version wasn't entirely faithful to the recipe. For no reason other than I failed to read the recipe beforehand and realise that it recommended cooking for eight hours in a slow cooking. I had neither eight hours or a slow cooker, so a four hour hob braise it was. I managed to quell the minor panic at around the 2.5 hour mark when the cheeks were not that soft, a small temperature adjustment, and an hour and a half later they were falling apart. The other adjustment made was to serve the beef cheeks with Quinoa rather than the recommended Cous Cous - an adjustment necessary due to one of the guest's being wheat intolerant.

The cheeks just melted, the presence of the orange zest was a pleasant addition - giving the savoury flavours and juice a welcome sweet boost.

The beef cheeks were paired with initially with a Hunter Valley Ivanhoe Parker Reg 2007 Shiraz. Now, if memory serves me correctly, 2007 was not a stellar vintage for Hunter reds. That said, this particular wine did nothing to offend. it didn't stand out either. Subdued is probably my best descriptor. No bad thing, it didn't have the sweetness the beef cheeks possibly called for, but there was a pleasant fruit profile and a pleasant balance.

The Ivanhoe, however, was slightly overshadowed by what followed: Cirillo 2007 1850 Grenache. This one is made from the oldest Grenache vines currently in production. There are apparently some older vines in Spain but I believe they are not in a good state. A colleague of mine is in a great position as an online stockist of the Cirillo portfolio. A relationship I one day hope to exploit, either with a future visit to the Barossa or some other point in the future.

Having tasted a previous vintage, my main memory of this wine was a real 'earthiness'. It was this that I was expecting again, however it wasn't present. There were some fine tannins present and a pleasant lingering finish. But none of that earthiness. I'll have to revisit this and pay more attention (this evening was about friends and the sharing of wine, not necessarily for over analysis).

Cheese
The meal, but not the evening, was finished with a selection of cheeses from the Rosalie Deli. I tried to balance the selection: a French Brie, Maleny Camembert, English Stilton and a young Victorian Chevre.

The presence of the cheese at the table causes me some trouble. I had taken the time to decant a Castagna Genesis 2005 Syrah and wanted my guests to experience this wonderful wine. I was scared that the cheese - in particular the Stilton - would kill the experience of the Genesis. Alas it was a battle I lost, the guests tucking in to the cheese with abandon.

I managed to refrain from doing so until I had a good pour of the Castagna. A beautiful crafted wine: incredible structure, length, a delicacy and my over-riding memory of the wine is delicate violets. I particularly wanted to share this wine as it one that has really turned my head in the Australian wine stakes. I happily hold my hand up and say that my origins in wine consumption are in the sunshine in a bottle club and that sweet, oaked profile is one I still enjoy. The Castagna to me is the total opposite of that and it has really opened my mind to what else is out there. I digress.

To Close
There was still some life left in the crowd. A bottle of Peter Lehmann The King Port was retrieved. The cork was the first challenge, crumbling, disintegrating and some of it appearing in the bottle. We overcame this, and the sediment through the use of a fine mesh tea strainer and pouring funnel. Possibly not the best approach, but let's just say it was pragmatic and delivered a fine structured port that closed the evening off perfectly.

I love evenings like this and am fortunate to be able to share them with friends. The only downside is the fuzzy head the next morning, the eager 7 month old daughter, but even then her infectious smile can see me through.