The Vinsomniac - Stuart Robinson

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Tuesday, 31 May 2011

Sommeliers Australia - South American Tasting

  20:50    

As part of my continued palate education, I attended a Sommeliers Australia event on South American wines.  Hosted by leading importers Jim Mcilwain (Southern Cross Wines) and David Castro-Stevens (Wines of Chile), the tasting showcased classic wines from Chile and Argentina. 

Underagga T.H. Sauvignon Blanc 2009
From 4.36 hectares, 14 kilometres from the ocean and planted on coastal crack clay comes this pungent Sauvignon Blanc.  Pronounced lemon character; minerality dissolving across the back palate and a high acid backbone. 

Casas Del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010
More in the New Zealand style with herbaceous notes, again the pungency quite prominent.  Acid showing on entry into the palate and quite an astringent finish. 

Rutini Wines Trumpeter Torrontes Mendoza 2010
Torrontes is native to Argentina.  This, my first example, is apparently atypical of the varietal.  Showing bright florals and apricot aromas, redolent of a worked Viognier.  Clean and fresh on the palate with a drying finish. 

De Martino Reserva 347 Vineyards Chadonnay 2010
Faint hints of green apple on the palate, but it is very closed.  Natural creaminess and a slight briny character on the palate.  Almond, nutty finish. 

Morande Reserva Chardonnay 2006
Slight hint of struck match, a worked style exhibiting buttered toasty notes.  Rich and buttery through the palate, there is a line of acid with over-riding toasty notes from generous oak. 

Santa Rita '120' Carmenere 2008
The 'Chilean Merlot'.  Primary fruit character of plum, light of body.  Showing some good chalky tannin with savoury spicy notes.  Good entry level Carmenere deserving of some food. 

Santa Rita Reserva Carmenere 2008
Plum and tobacco notes flow through to a medium bodied palate.  Tannins are less pronounced than the entry level 120 exhibiting themselves in a savoury drying, twiggy manner.  Final notes of chocolate on conclusion. 

William Fevre Gran Cuvee Carmenere 2004
Slightly aged style, showing more in the way of some leaf, dried herb notes.  Primacy of fruit making way for more savoury notes; drying tannins. 

Perez Cruz Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Leafy woody aromas segue into a smooth, silken cassis body.  Structure abounds: firm, persistent tannin that fills and coats the mouth. 

Conclusion
Some outstanding value represented here.  I shall endeavour to add RRPs against the wines and some alcohol % figures.  Sadly missed some Malbec and Carignan.

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Monday, 30 May 2011

Charles Melton Shiraz 2001

  17:07    

Graeme "Charlie" Melton's poor French is well documented; luckily so his ability to work with classic Rhone varietals, such as this Shiraz.

Praying to St Finbarr (poetic license here for he is the patron Saint of the Irish city of Cork) when opening this bottle, I wasn't disappointed. For,  like a fart during procreation, the romance of cork soon disappears when a bottle is corked, or should that be borked to use local vernacular.

As ever, I digress.  Beautiful black cherry and plum aromas, exhibiting some Mataro like earthy headiness.  Entry shows a silken, lithe palate: more black cherry, still showing some fruit character.

The finish: fine, powdery, chalky tannin - even a touch of twigginess.  Oh but its beauty lies in the integration of the parts, the balance shown and a long smooth finish.  Happiness.

Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $44 (on release)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Cork
Website: http://www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au/

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Hahndorf Hill "The Blueblood" Blaufränkisch 2009

  14:45    

Until recently I'd not had the pleasure of tasting Blaufränkisch - literally blue Frankish - and then in one of those moments of synchronicity I tasted an Austrian example and then most generously this sample from Hahndorf Hill.

I read that Blaufränkisch is so named in part because of its colour; the fränkisch part coming from a medieval attempt to classify grapes whose origins lay with the superior Fränks (fränkisch).  

I was told that it is a relative of Gamay, but have not been able to back this up other than to say that it is known as Gamé in Bulgaria. 

But enough etymology - what does it taste like I hear you ask? Spicy black cherry with a hint of coffee grounds lurking in the background.  It's brightly coloured; the palate smooth. Berries, red and black abound, textural in the mouth giving way to a good backbone of acid carrying a persistent line of spice.  Tannins are present, but not overt.  Paired well with a cauliflower and pumpkin curry.

So that's me, but the final word has to go to Pat Haddock: "Blauf Blauf, get it down your mouth!". 

Source: Sample
Price: $35
Alcohol: 14.5%
Closure: Screwcap

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Thursday, 26 May 2011

Deisen Mataro 2005

  12:17    

Good to see Mataro getting some shelf space in its own right, rather than as a component of a GSM blend.  That said, the best examples come from old vines, as the Teusner crew proclaim: "A young root is just no good!".

This example from 2005 was clearly one of the early trend-setters in bringing a single variety Mataro to the party.

It smells of Black Forest gateaux, with a dark mass of black fruit at its core.  Leathery, earthy and even though it is six years old, still the presence of some good primary fruit.

Tarry notes carry through the palate where a touch of creaminess radiates out.  Good, definite and persistent finish - one of those wines where the flavour lasts long after it has slid down your throat.

Source: Retail, Grand Central Cellars
Price: $39
Alcohol: 14.5%$
Closure: Cork

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Umami Alpine Valley Sangiovese 2008

  11:57    

Apparently Sangiovese is a highly adaptable grape, capable of changing radically, morphologically even, in terms of leaf shape, berry size etc.

Max Allen in his "The Future Makers" states that early Sangiovese was thin and boring, and that clonal selection was of high yielding Californian varietal.

This however, from eddiewinemaker, is a damn fine example.  Exotically perfumed aroma.  Smooth on entry, the fruit presents itself but it is the savoury quality that dominates. 

Good fine tannic grip, pushing through to an immensely satisfying finish.  It has complexity, like there's this battle raging between polished, refined qualities and some rustico elements.  It's balanced, it works, I enjoyed.

Source: Retail, Spiros Paddington
Price: $45
Alcohol: 13.8%
Closure: Screwcap

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Sunday, 15 May 2011

Pepper Tree Wrattonbully Pinot Gris 2010

  13:19    

The wine offers varietal correctness, with aromatic and textural interest. Fairly linear in overall profile; aromas of pear, florals - a slight perceived creaminess.  Textural, plump fruit with some spice.  

Varietal creamy, oily, unctuous palate.  of moderate length, a modicum of spice travelling a line that terminates mid-length.

Source: Someone left it in the fridge
Price: $22
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: www.peppertreewines.com.au/

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Mike Press Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2009

  13:08    

Ignore the price, enjoy the wine.  Find some - it's sold out ex-winery - enjoy a couple of bottles now, but enjoy it in five years time.

Beautiful perfume of sweet American Oak; mulberries, black fruits and a touch of cola.  Smooth, velvet glove-like palate.  This slides around the palate.  Acid - perfectly pitched against the presence of oak.  Mike Press is a product of Penfolds and is unashamedly a fan of the use of American oak.

The finish demonstrates a mocha-ish note, but the wine's success lies in its persistence of flavour.  It looks simply stunning over a number of days.


Source: Retail, Purvis Cellars
Price: $12.50
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Screwcap
Website: http://www.mikepresswines.com.au/

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